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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 




THE 

American ga rment Cutter 

A Complete, Practical, Up-to-date Treatise 
on the Cutting of 

Albert's (garments 

According to the Latest and Most Approved Method 




Published by 

American Fashion Company 

New York, London, Paris, Berlin 



THE AMERICA \ GA R M E X T CI ' T T E R 



build of a man, and to be reproduced as nearly perfect as is possible to human 
ingenuity is what has been sought in this work. The author has so far suc- 
ceeded that of the many who have studied, either by direct instruction or 
by the aid of this publication, not one has failed to enjoy the fullest 
confidence of their clientage. Particularly is this system of value where 
cutting has to be done without " try-on " and at no time can a garment 
be spoiled. The perfect points being the fundamental object of this method. 






PREFACE 



In placing this work before the Cutting Fraternity, we feel confident 
that we have p.laced before them something that is useful and practical. 
Unlike any other work of its kind, its construction is simple and easy to 
understand. It has been our aim to eliminate all discussion of an ana- 
tomical nature, for we do not pretend to teach anatomy, nor do we try to 
convince the student of something we are not convinced of ourselves. We 
do claim that our work is absolutely practical, and correct, its measures are 
simple, and applied on the pattern exactly as taken and they cover any 
and all points that have heretofore confused the cutter. There will be no 
need for the cutter to mark on the book " R. B." for round back or 
"O. E." for over erect or any other sign by which to know the shape of his 
customer, for his measurements will show all such points. We feel 
certain that any cutter following the instructions of the American Garment 
Cutter will be satisfied with the results obtained. 

THE AUTHOR. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT C U TTER 



THE MEASURING OF THE HUMAN BODY 

The fact that in order to perfectly fit the human body, it requires perfect measure- 
ments, cannot be too often urged upon the cutter, and not only that, but it requires much 
tact on the part of the cutter to get his customer to forget that he is being measured. A fact, 
well known among cutters is, that ninety-nine out of one hundred men will pose, uncon- 
sciously perhaps, while being measured, ft is common to see a man standing erect, with 
shoulders thrown back and chest expanded, and if you were to ask him to stand naturally, 
he would be indignant and answer, "Why, of course this is my natural position," but if after 
the garment is completed he stoops forward, his chest sunken in, his back rounded, it will then 
be necessary for the cutter to either make a big alteration or a new garment ; so it will readily 
be seen that the cutter who can make his customer forget that he is being measured, has 
the best chance of success. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE 

Before measuring it is well to see that the sides of the Vest are not too loose; if neces- 
sary, pin up both sides of the Vest, but see that the center seam of the back is in the right 
place. 

Use the ordinary division square. Place square under the arm with the long end down 
and parallel with the body. (See Fig. i.) The short end to be close, but not tight, under 
the arm; make a chalk mark on top of it in front, and, still holding the square in the same 
position, make a mark on the side of the hack, and remove. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




Figure i 



10 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE— Continued 

Now place the short end of the square under the arm with the long end upward (see 
Fig. 2), still keeping the inner edge of it close, but not tight, at the front scye; mark at the 
outer edge of it across the first line, so that it leaves a cross mark at the front scye (see Fig. 
3). Now place the square under the other arm and mark the same way at front and side 
of the back. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



ll 




Figure 2 



12 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE— Continued 

The cross mark shown on the front in Figure 3 shows where the line of scye depth and 

cle line cross. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



13 




Figure 3 



II THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE— Continued 

Place the long end of the square across both marks on the back and mark across the 
center seam (see Fig. 4); this gives the scye depth. Now find the socket bone, or from above 
the collar button at the back, measure to the scye depth, divide in half and mark across the 
center seam. 

To get the waist length, put the tape line around the waist just above the hip bone, and 
mark across center seam of back, measure 6 inches down for the hip. It is easily understood 
that no matter where the hip may he. as long as you go down the same distance for the draft, 
as the measure, you must be right. 

We will now proceed to measure. 

First from the socket hone to the scye depth; on to the waist line; on to the full length. 
Now place the tape line to the back collar button Figure -| and measure to cross line on front 
( Fig. 3) for strap measure; then from line half way between socket hone and scye depth, to 
the same cross line on front for over-shoulder measure. 

Then from front cross line (Fig. 3) under arm and over the blade hone to the center 
seam of hack for blade measure. 

Then breast, not tight; waist, and hip. 

In taking the breast measure he sure that your tape string is over the most prominent 
part of the blade bone. 



THE VEST 
If measured for a suit all that is needed is the opening and lull length measure. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



15 




Figure 4 



1G THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HOW TO MEASURE— Continued 

TROUSERS 

Measure the outside seam from the hip bone to the top of heel. 

For the inseam have the trousers well drawn up and measure from the crotch to the top 
of heel, then the waist, hip, seat, thigh, knee and bottom. 



THE SQUARE 

The square used for these diagrams is a plain division square, understood by most cut- 
ters, but for the benefit of those who do not understand it, we herewith give an explanation 
of the divisions of same. 

The long end of the square is divided into \, f , {, T V> it the short end is divided into 
i> i> »• tV and : .\, -. Should you try to find ■£ of any size, say 36, 40 or 48, look 
at the short end of the square marked £, and there you will find the number you want, 18 for 
36, 20 for 40, or 24 for 48. Should you want ^ of any size, look at the same short end of 
square marked ^, or if you want J, '. or T V look at the long end for the mark }, | or T V and 
you will find it. 

In drawing for square lines be sure that you hold your square on the one line firmly, 
while drawing the right angle, for one line off will spoil the whole draft. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



17 



>' 




Figure 5 



18 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



LESSON I. 

SINGLE BREASTED SACK COAT 



We will now begin with our first lesson, the ground work. 
This is tn he a single breasted sack coat. 
The measures are as follows 

Scye depth, ()\ inches Blade, 13 inches 

Natural waist. 17 inches Breast. 38 inches 

Full length. 30 inches Waist. 34 inches 

Strap, uj : inches Seat. 39 inches 

( >ver shi adder, 14J, inches 
Square lines A — N and A — F. 

\ in I! is scye depth, <;! inches; 11 to C is 7 inch; this f inch allowance is for the three 
seams that we lose — | inch at the center seam of the hack, and [ inch each at the hack and 
front shoulders. 

A to I > is waist length, 17 inches. I) to E is 6 inches always, same as measure. F is 
full length plus J inch. 

Square out from I!. C, D, E and F. < i is half way between A and B 
At D go in I inch in all sack coats except on box or straight hack coats 

I )raw a line from the I inch line, point up to G and dow n to F. 
From the line just drawn at I', to H is i of full breast — 1<) inches. 

II t<> I is 3^ inches; square down from 1. 

J is half way between the inner line at Hand II. 

J to K is 3JI inches always. Square down from K. 

Now apply the blade measure from the line inside of I! to wherever it comes; in this 
case the blade measure is 13 inches and comes even with the lower line, but let it be under- 
stood that the blade line is independent of the line squared down from 1\ . and may be ] inch. 
', inch, or 1 inch in or out of that line, according to measure. (Sec diagrams X and 9.) 

Square up from where the blade line conies, and make no allowance for seams, as in 
placing the square in front of the arm scye you have already made allowance, the width of the 
square being 1 j inches, which makes just five seams. 

K to I. is .'. 1 he distance from A to ]). 

I he scye depth in this case being ol inches, -make the distance from l\ to I. hj on Oth 
division ■ >i the square. 

Square up from L. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



19 



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I H 



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-® F 



Diagram i 



20 THE AMUR I CAN GARMENT CUTTER 



LESSON I.— Continued 



I' is half way between the line inside of B and K. 

P to Q is i j inches. Square up from Q. From i to R is \ breast always. From R to 
Sis \\ inches. 

Square out from S. S to I is about : ,' inch, more or less, according to the style of shoul- 
der. From P to back line is about \ inch, more or less, according to style and taste. How- 
ever, in cases where a full or straight back is wanted, cut the hack wide, say from P to back 
line i inch. Square di »\\ n. 

A to I' is | inch more than \ breast. 

Square up from I*. 

I' to V is | inch. 

Draw a line from midway between U anil V to T. Shape the back. 

\1 is half way between K and L. 

Measure back from A to V, apply same to K ami up to X, which is strap measure — [2^ 
inches; add | inch to it, making 13 inches. 

Draw a line from X to < r. Square forward from N. N to 14 is ]. breast. 14 to [3 
is \\ inches. X to O is \ breast. 

I 'lace the square at ( ) and M and square forward. 

I (raw a line fn >m 13 to I. 

From Z to 2 is I waist, 17 on half division of the square. From 2 to 3 is 1 J inches. From 
3 back to 4 is 3^ niches. 

Shape front through 1 and 3 down. 

Xote that in placing point R [ breast from the lower line always, you get the proper 
slope oi the shoulder. For if the scye depth is short, it will give a square and narrow shoul- 
der, and if long, a sloping wide shoulder. However, in case of a sloping shouldered man 
wanting his shoulders padded heavily, you may make the distance from R to S if or 2 inches, 
according to the amount of padding wanted. 



THE AMERICAN G ARM EXT CUTTER 21 




Diagram 2 



22 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



LESSON I. -Continued 

Measure back from 9 '.o E. apply to 8 and back to 10, seat measure, plus £ inch. 

Measure back 7 to D, apply to 4 and back to 6, waist measure, plus 1 inch; draw a line 
from 6 to 10. 

Between front and back at Q take out £ inch, the amount of cloth it would take for 
seams if you were to cut an underarm fish. Shape the side of the front. 

Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at N. 

Straighten out the bottom of forepart. 

The height of the pocket is 2/3 of the sleeve length, measured on the inseam. For in- 
stance, if the sleeve length be 18 inches, look for 18 at the long end of the square, marked 
"2 Thirds"; 12 inches from the armscye, and mark the pocket parallel with the bottom of 
the front ; make line Z — K the center of it, and mark 1/6 of the breast each side of it. 

For a one or a four button sack, mark the last button \\ inches above the pocket. 

For a three button sack mark the last button opposite to the ticket pocket or t,\ inches 
above the side pockets. 







Diagram 3 



24 / // E . t M E R I C A N G A K M E X T CUTTER 



LESSON I. -Continued 

Cut the back out, and place pi unt V on point X, measure over shoulder from G through 
X In K, swing the hack until you get the proper measurement with J inch allowance, mark 
at X; sweep from point X to Y, pivoting at M. Reshape shoulder and finish. 






THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



25 




Diagram 4 
How to Get the Over-Shoulder Measure. 



2fi THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE 

A question often asked by the student is, "How are we to know a stooping from an 
erect figure?" 

The answer is, "The measurements will show;" on diagram 5 is a draft of a normal fig- 
ure; that is, the distance from A to B is the same as L to N, which shows that the back and 
front are of the same height and normal. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



27 



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ifr 



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Diagram 5 



28 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE 
Continued 

( )n diagram 6 \vc have an erect figure where the distance from L to N is greater than 
from A to B, which shows that the person is flat in the back and full on the front shoulder, 
and leans backwards. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



29 




Diagram 6 



30 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



ACTUAL MEASUREMENTS WILL SHOW FIGURE 
Continued 

On diagram 7 we have the stooping figure where the distance from A to B is greater 
than L to N, showing that the person is round shouldered and stoops forward; but the blade 
also plays an important part in the make-up of a person; for instance, on a normal figure the 
width of a front across the breast from K to I is ] of breast measure. (See diagram 8.) 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE 



R 31 




I M \(,k.\M 7 



32 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



These measures are the same as on previous draft, Diagram 7, except that the blade 
measure is h inch smaller, that is 12!, instead of 13 inches, causing the hack to decrease from 
B to P, while the front, from K to I, is increased to 10 instead of f)\ inches, thus showing a 
full breast and Hat back. 




T II E A M E RICAN G A R M E X T CU T T E R 33 

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N 



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J 



P Q, 



(j)G 



<» B 

5)0 



OD 



6t)B 



^!)F 



Diagram 8 



3-1 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



FULL BACK— FLAT BREAST 

These measures are the same as on Diagram 5, except that the blade measure is in- 
creased to 134 inches, causing the hack from I! to P to increase, while the breast from K to 
I has decreased to 9 inches, showing that the hack is round while the breast is flat. 



T II E A M E RICA Nj ( / ARM EN T C U TTE R 35 



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Diagram 9 



36 THE AMERICAN G ARM EN T CUT T E R 



THREE BUTTON SACK 



The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Depth of scye, g inches Over shoulder, 13! inches 

Waist length. 17 inches Blade, i-'i inches 

Seat, 23 inches Breast. 36 inches 

Full length, 30 inches Waist, 32 inches 

Strap, 12 inches Seal. 37 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is 9 inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 
30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. 

G is half way between A and B. At D go in \ inch. Draw a line from G to D and 
square down. 

From line just made at B to H is half of full breast — 18 inches. H to I is 3^ inches. 
Square down from 1. J is half way between B and H. J to K is 3.} inches. Square down 
from K. 

Apply blade measure from B to K — 12^ inches. Square up from K. K to L is \ the 
distance from A to B. Square up from L. P is half way between B and K, P to O is i{ 
inches. Square up from O. 

Q to R is 1 breast. K to S 1- 1 \ inches, S to T is \ inch, A to U is '\ inch more than i, 
breast. Square up from I'. I" to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back 

Measure back A to V, apply to K and up to N, strap measure plus -.{ inch — 12} inches. 

Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 13 is ti inches more than 
one-sixth breast. Draw a line from 13 to 1. X to is T l , breast. M is half way between K 
and L. Square forward from O by K. Sweep from X to Y. pivoting at M. X to Y is ] 
inch less than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye, 

Z to 5 is \ waist. 5 to 3 is 1 ] inches, 3 to 2 is 3] inches. 

Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 0, waist measure, plus 1 inch — 17 inches. 

Measure 9 to E and S to 10, scat measure plus } inch — 19 inches. 

Shape the side of the front, taking out I inch between front and back at O. 

Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. Finish front as represented. Cut out the back. 
Place point V on point X. < let o\ er shoulder measure from G through X to K plus } inch 
— 13! inches. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from lapel crease through X to 18. N to [8 is the same as A to V Square 
down from [8. 18 to t<) is t} inches. 18 to 17 is i| inches. Shape collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



37 




Three Button Sack 



38 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Blade, 


13 


inches 


Breast, 


38 


inches 


Waist, 


34 


inches 


Seat, 


39 


inches 



STRAIGHT FRONT SACK— STRAIGHT BACK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, g\ inches 

Natural waist, 17 inches 

Full length, 30 inches 

Strap, I2f inches 

Over shoulder, 14} inches 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is gi inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; D to E is 6 inches; A to F is 
30 inches. 

Square out from B, C. D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. B to H is half oi 
full breast, 19 inches; H to I is 3^ inches. J is half way between 1! and 11. J to K is 3.} inches. 
Square down from I and K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K. 13 inches, and square up. 

K to L is ^ the distance from A to B, in this case 19 on the 6th division. Square up 
from L. P is half way between B and Iv, P to Q is 1] inches. Square up from Q. From 
O to R is I breast, R to S is 1 i inches. Square out from S. S to T is | inch. A to U is ^ 
inch more than £ breast. Square up from U. F to V is J; of an inch. Draw a line from U 
to T. 

Shape the back. 

Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X, strap measure plus \ inch, 13 inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X to 8 is -J breast measure plus 
I^ inches. Draw a line from 8 to I. X to 19 is | breast measure. i\I is half way between 
K and L. Square out from 19 by M. 

W to X is half waist, X to Y is 1 j inches, V back to X is 3^- inches. Shape front edge 

From front edge to 10 is 3-i inches. Measure back 4 to F, apply to 10 and back to 1, 
seat measure plus 1 inch. 1 to 3 is 1 :'| inches. Square up from 3 to establish 13. Draw a 
line from 13 through 1 to 11. 

Between back and front at Q take out 1 inch. Shape side of front. Sweep from 9 to 
20, pivoting at M. N to 20 is j inch less than V to T. Shape gorge, shoulder anil armscye. 
Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at X. Cut out back and place point V on point X. 

Measure over shoulder from <■ through 9 to K, 14J, plus \ inch — 14^ inches. Mark at 
9, where the back laps over the front shoulder and sweep from there to 20, pivoting at M. 



THE AMERICAN G ARM E X T CUTTER 



:vj 




Straight Front Sack — Straight Back 



40 THE AM /• R I C A N G A R .1 1 E N T CUTT E R 



FOUR BUTTON MILITARY SACK 

With or without Exaggerated Shoulders. The dotted lines show exaggeration 

The measurements are the same as on previous draft. 

Square lines A — F and A — U. 

A to B i- ' i.', inches; 1! to C is ;,' inch; A to I > is \~ inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 
30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and 1*". ( i is hall way between A and B. 

At D go in \ inch, square down and draw a line up to G. 

From line inside of B to II is half of full breast, 19 inches. 11 to 1 is 3.' inches. J is 
half way between B and 11. J to K is 3! inches. Square clown from I and K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13 inches. Square up from K. 

K to I. is \ the distance from A to B, [9011 6th division. Square up from L. P is 
half way between B and K . P to Q is 1 j inches. Square up from Q. Q to l\ is | breast, K 
to S is 1 .', inches. Square out from S. S to T is \ inch. From I' to back line 7 is f inch. 
Square down to II. From A to U is \ inch more than \ breast. Square up from I". From 
LJ to V is I inch. 

Draw a line from U to I ; shape the back. 

Measure distance A to Y; apply to K and lip to X, --trap measure [2§ plus j inch — \ i\ 
inches. 

Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 1 \ is \ breast. 14 to 13 is 
ii inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. M is half way between I\ and L. 

Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is j inch less than V to T. N to O is \ 
breast. Square forward from I > by M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

Z to 2 is half waist, 2 to 3 is 1 \ inches, 3 back to 4 is 3] inches. Shape front edge. 8 is 
3| inches back from the edge. 

Measure back 9 to E; apply to S and back t in! inches; add J, inch — 20 inches. 

10 to 9 is i| inches, square up from 9 to get 6, draw a line from 6 through 10 to 1 _'. 

Shape the side of forepart and take out \ inch under arm fish. 

Sweep from [2 to 15, pivoting at X. Cut out the back and apply point V to X; swing 
until you gel shoulder measure, plus | inch. 

For broad shoulders and narrow collar, proceed as follows: After the back is cut, add 
j or I inch at A- - V, and the same at X. Add | or g inch at T, raising the shoulder for 
padding and increasing the back as per broken lines. Increase the shoulder at Y as much 
as is necessary. 

Diagram on page 43 shows a ven good wa\ to cut a concave shoulder. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



41 




Four Button Military Sack 
With or without exaggerated shoulder. The dotted lines are exaggi 



42 TIIH AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE. 



HOW TO CUT A CONCAVE SHOULDER. 

The trouble that cutters usually experience in trying to yet concave shoulders is that 
they fail to make provision for the stretching of it, and thus lose the original position of the 
shoulder point. A good test of this is: take the fronts of an) ordinary coat and stretch the 
hollow of the gorge, the shoulder and the armscye, then lay the original pattern upon it and 
see the result. 

The following diagram shows a very g 1 way to yet a concave shoulder: 

After the pattern has been cut according to measurements, double your front over, say 
! inch, as from E to F, the result will he to bring the shoulder point over as from solid line 
A to broken line B, and from solid line C to broken line I ). Stretch the hollow of the gi irge, 
the shoulder and armscye as marked on diagram. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



|:i 




"How to cut a Concave Shoulder" 



44 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED SACK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, o'. inches Over shoulder, 14}- inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade. 13 inches 

Seat, 23 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Full length, 30 inches Waist, 34 inches 

Strap, 1 2.} inches Seat, 39 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is g\ inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 
30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F; < \ is half way between A and I'.. 
\t I ) go in .', inch, draw line up to G and down to F. 

From line inside of B to 11 is I full breast. 11 to I is 2^ inches. 1 to J is 3} inches. 

Square down from 1 and J. K is halfway between B and II. K to L is 35 inches. 
Square down from L. Apply blade measure from 11 to L. 13 inches. Square up from L. 
L to I\I is .'. the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

P is half way between II and L. P to Q is 1 \ inches. Square up from Q. to R is \ 
1 re.ist. I\ to S is \\ inches, S to T is l { inch. P to back line is 1 inch. Square down for back. 

A to U is \ breast measure plus | inch. LJ to V is | inch. Draw a line from V to T. 
Shape back. 

Measure distance A to \'. apply to L and X for strap measure plus J inch — [2^ inches 

1 )raw a line from N to (1 to get W. Sweep from W to X. pivoting at ( >. X to X is | 
inch less than V to T. X to 14 is \ breast measure. Square forward from 14 by 0. 

Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

Y to Z is half waist measure, Z to 2 is 3.I inches, 2 back to 3 is 5! inches. 

Measure distance 4 to D, and 3 to 1, waist measure plus 1 inch. 

Measure distance 6 to E and 5 to 7, seat measure plus \ inch. 

Square out from X. X to 12 is \ inch more than ,', breast measure. u to 11 is 3] 
inches; draw a line from 12 to I and from [i to J. Shape front. 

Sweep from 8 to 9, pivoting at X. extend line 1 — Z up and take out V. 

< ut out back and place point V on point X. 

Gel over shoulder measure from G through W to L, 14', plus \ inch, 14.I inches. 

Sweep to X and reshape shoulder. 



THE A M E R I C A \ : G A R M EN T CUTTE R 



45 




Three Button Double-Breasted Sack 



4(i T II E A M ERIC AN G A R M F, N T C U T T E R 



Strap, 


13 


inches 


( Iver shoulder, 


'5 


inches 


Blade, 


134 


inches 


Breast, 


40 


inches 


inches 







FOUR BUTTON SACK 
For Stout Figure 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follow: 

Scye depth, g\ inches 

Waist length, 17 inches 

Seat. 23 inches 

Full length. 30 inches 

Waist, 40 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A tn B is g\ inches; 1! to C is | inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A to F is 
30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

At D go in I inch, square down to F and draw a line up to G. 

From the line just made inside of B to H is half of full breast. 20 niches. 11 to I is 3^ 
niches. 

J is half way between B and H, J to K is 3!- inches. Square down from 1 and K. 

Apply blade measure from the line inside of B to K 13A inches. From K to I. is ' : 
the distance from A to B, in this case nj on the 6tb division. Square up from L. P is half 
way between II and I\. P to Q is ij inches. Square up from Q. Square down for hack. 
From 1 to R is | breast, R to S is 1 ! inches. Square out from S. S to T is ■'■ inch. 

A to U is 5 inch more than -J breast. Square up from U, U to V is | inch. Draw a 
line from U to T. Shape back. 

Measure distance A t" V, apply to K ami up to X. strap measure, 13 plus ] inch — 13J 
inches. " 

Draw a line from .\ T to G. Square forward from N. X to 20 is ,', breast. 26 to 25 is 1 }, 
inches. Draw a line from 25 to I. 

M is half way between K and L; N to O is £ breast. Square out from O by M. Sweep 
from X to Y, pivoting at M. X to Y is [ inch less than V to T. 

Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

'/. to 2 is },- waist, j t,i 3 is 1 ! inches; 3 back to 4 is 3I inches. Square down from 3. 

Measure back from 7 to line inside of D. apply to 4 and back to 6, waist measure plus i 
; nch; square down from 6 to get 0; to 10 isi I inches: draw a line from 6 through 10 to 12. 
Shane the side of front. 

Sweep from 1? forward, pivoting at N. Shape front edtje and bottom. From K to 16 
is I the sleeve length. ' 

Measure distance from 16 to bottom of forepart; mark the same distance from bottom 
of forenart to 18 and to 17; draw a line from 17 to iN. 16 to 17 "and [6 to 18 are ,', breast 
each; (be underarm cut is from half «-av between Q ami K to half wav between [6 and 18: 
cut open the under arm seam. Cut the pocket to 1 7- Take out a one inch V from 17 to bot- 
tom of forepart a- marked. (Sec Diagram Page 49.) 

THE O )1.E.\R 

Draw a line from 24 through X to 20; X to 20 is the same as A to V 

Square down from 20. 20 to 21 is 1 J inches. 2n to 22 is 2 inches. The width of collar 

in front at 23 is \ -'■ inches. Shape as represented. 

Cut out back ami place point V on point X ; get over shoulder measure from G through 

X to K, 15 inches plus \ inch, 15} inches. 



THE AM E R I C A N G A R .1 / E X T C r T T E R 




3()0 



Four Button Sack for Stout Figure 



48 T II E A M E R I C A N G A R M E X T C UTTER 



FOUR BUTTON SACK 
For Corpulent Figure 



The measurements by which this draft is produced arc as follows: 

Scye depth, 9} inches Over shoulder, 15^ inches 

Waist length, 17^ inches Blade, 13! inches 

Full length, 31 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Strap, 13^ inches Waist, 42 inches 

Square lines A — F and A — V. 

A to B is 9^ inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17-J inches; A to E is 2$i inches; A to F 
is 31 inches. 

Square out from P., C, D, F and F. G is half way between A and B. 

D to inner line is \ inch. Square down from inner line and draw line up to G. From 
the line just made at 11 to 1 1 is half of full breast. K is half way between 1'. and H. K to 9 is 
3j inches. 

Square up and down from o. O is half way between B and 9. O to P is 1^ inches. 
Square up from P. 

P to O is J f breast; Q to R is 1 J incites. Square out from R. R to S is 5 inch. 
\ to V is •'} inch more than J breast. Square up front V. V to U is § inch. Draw a 
line from V to S and shape back 

For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast advance ] inch from 9 to L; in 
this case, where the breast measure is 40 and the waist 42 inches advance the blade i inch 
from to L. Square up and down from F. 

I . to M is .'. the distance from A to P.. Square up from M. H to J is the same as 9 to 
L — I inch, J to T is 3^ inches. 

Measure distance A to U, apply to L and up to N, T3I inches plus .{■ inch — 134 inches. 
Draw a line from N to G. N to 8 is ,', breast, plus \ \ inches. Draw a line from 8 to I. 
N to 19 is J breast measure. 17 is half way between Land M. Square forward from 19 by 17. 

\V to X is 1 waist. X to Y is 1 ] inches, Y hack to 7. is 3} inches. Square down from Y. 

Measure back 2 to D and Z to 3, | waist measure plus \ inch. Square down from 3 to 4. 
From 4 to 1 is i^ inches. Draw a line from 3 through 1 to 11. Shape the side of front. 
Sweep from 11 to [2 pivoting at N. Sweep from 10 to 20, pivoting at 17. Shape front, 
gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From 1. to [5 is -, of sleeve length. Measure distance from 15 to bottom of front. 
Mark same distance from bottom to 13 and 14. Draw a line from 13 to 14. From 15 to 14 
and 13 are I, breast measure each. 23 is half way between P and 9. Between 23 and jj 
take out the \ inch that has been added from < ( to 1., cut the pocket to 14 and take out 1 inch 
V to botti mi of front. 

Cut out the back and place point U on point X Get over shoulder measure with J 
inch allowance from G through [6 to L. Sweep I 

Finish as represented, , iage. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE 




Four Button Sack for Corpulent Figure 



50 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



After the front is cut out and the V taken out as from 17 to the bottom of front, reshape 
the bottom as shown on Diagram 10, following: — 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



61 




Diagram io. 



52 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THREE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK. 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Over shoulder, 13^ inches 

Natural waist, i6| inches Blade, 12^ inches 

Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Breast, 36 inches 

Full leng-th, 36 inches Waist, 32 inches 

Strap, 12 inches Seat, 37 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is 9 inches: B to C is f inch; A to D is 16^ inches; A to E is i8i inches; A to F 
is 36 inches. 

Square out from B. C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. H to I is 2-J inches, I to J is 1 inch. 
K is half way between B and H, 9 inches. Kto L is 3J inches. Square down from I and L. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12 J inches. L to M is }, the distance from A to 
B, 18 on 6th division. 

Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square 
up from P; P to O is ] breast, O to R is i-J inches; Q to T the same. 

Square out from R. R to S is J inch. A to U is f inch more than | breast. Square up 
from U, U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. 

E to 1 is I inch more than | breast. F to 2T is the same as E to 1. Shape back. Measure 
back A to V, apply to L and up to N. strap measure 12 plus 1 , inch. 12} inches. Draw a line 
from N to G. Square forward from N. N to T4 is £ breast. T4 to 13 is ii inches. Draw 
a line from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. 

N to 20 is £ inch less than V to S. N to 12 is £ breast measure. Square forward from 
12 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscve. 

From 2 to 3 is i^ inches in this case. The waist suppression is as follows: Where the 
waist measures the same as the breast, or more, take out 1} inches between 2 and 3, never 
less; and for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast take out £ inch in addition to \\ 
inches: in this case, where the waist is 4 inches smaller than the breast, 4 eighths and 1^ 
make ij inches. 

From 3 to n is { waist measure. From W to X is \ waist measure. X to Y is 1} inches. 
Y back to Z is 3^ inches. 

Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3, and take out balance between 6 and 7, in this case \ 
inch, or ^ inch for everv inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

However, when the waist is as large as the breast and there is nothing left to take out 
between 6 and 7. take I inch out, and omit taking a fish out at the waist, and three 
inches from Y to Z is enoueh for a stout person. 

Draw a line from K to 6 and K to 7. and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to 
a. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line 
from 8 to waist line at 7. Draw a line from waist line to 4. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to o. 3 to <» is o inches. to 10 is r| inches. Draw a line from 
A through Torn it. 4 to t t is J inch more than 1 tn ji. 8 to 15 is the same as 4 to it. 
Draw a line from i c; to tt. 

Shape top of skirt dropping- it 1 inch at 8. round the skirt § inch over to. Cut out the 
back and place point V on point N; get over shoulder measure from G through 18 to L, 
sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. 

THE COLLAR 
Draw a line from t inch above J through N to 24. X to 24 is the same as A to V. 
Square down from 24. 24 to 25 i- 1 J inches. 24 to 23 is 1 '\ inches. Shape collar. 



THE A M ERIC AN G A R M E N T C UTTER 



53 




Three Button Cutaway Frock 



54 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Over s 


houlder, 


13* 


inches 


Blade, 




124 


inches 


Breast. 




36 


inches 


Waist, 




32 


inches 


Seat, 




37 


inches 



ONE BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 
Scye depth, 9 inches 

Natural Waist, \6\ inches 
Fashionable waist, i8| inches 
Full length, 36 inches 

Strap, 12 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is 9 inches; B to C is $ inch; A to D is ibi inches; A to E is i8| inches; A to F 
is 36 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. H to I is 2-} inches. I to J is 1 inch 

K is half way between B and H, 9 inches. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from I 
and L. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12^ inches. 

L to M is ^ the distance from A to B, 18 on 6th division. 

Square up from L and M. O is half way between B and I.. O to P is 1] inches; square 
up from P. P to Q is \ breast. O to R is \\ inches. O to T the same. 

Square out from R; R to S is f inch. A to U is \ inch more than \ breast measure. 
Square up from U; U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is ] inch more than 
\ breast. F to 21 is the same as E to t. Shape back. 

Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 12 plus } inch. 12] inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X t<> 14 is , 1 , breast. 14 to 13 is 
i-i inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 20 is -] 
inch less than V to S. N to 12 is £ breast. Square forward from 12 by 17. Shape gorge, 
shoulder, and armscve. From 2 to 3 is if}- inches. 

From 3 to 6 is \ waist. From W to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1 j- inches. Y back to Z 
is 3! inches. 

Measure waist, 2 to D and Z to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. in this case \ 
inch, or -J inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

Draw a line from K to (S and K to 7, and shape front and side body. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. 

Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at 1 inch back from N. 

Draw a line from 8 to fashionable waist line. Draw a line from waist line to 4. Shape 
the side body reducing it \ inch at T and \ inch at blade line. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches. 9 to 10 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 
4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is \ inch more than 1 to 21. 8 to 15 is the same as 4 to 11. 
Draw a line from 15 to 11. 

Shape top of skirt dropping it \ inch at 8, and rounding it \ inch over 10. 

Cut out the back and place point V on point N. 

Measure over shoulder from G through 18 to L, adding \ inch and reshape shoulder. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



55 




One Button Cutaway Frock 



56 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



ENGLISH WALKING COAT 



The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 10 inches Over shoulder, 14! inches 

Natural waist, 17 inches Blade, 13^ inches 

Fashionable waist, 19 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Full length, 38 inches Waist, 36 inches 

Strap, 13} inches Seat, 41 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is 10 inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 
38 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast measure, 20 inches. H to I is 2% inches; I to J is 1 inch. K 
is half way between B and H, 10 inches. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from I and L 
Apply blade measure from B to L, 13^ inches. 

L to M is \ the distance from A to B, 20 on 6th division. Square up from L and M. 

O is half way between B and L O to P is 1} inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ 
breast. Q to R is \\ inches. Q to T is the same. Square out from R. R to S is % inch. 

A to U is f inch more than \ breast. Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a 
line from U to S. 

E to 1 is \ inch more than ^ breast, F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape back 

Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 13} plus \ inch, 13^ inches 

Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 23 is \ breast. 23 to 22 is 
1^ inches. Draw a line from 22 to J. 

Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17.- N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. N to 19 is \ 
breast measure. Square forward from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. 

From 2 to 3 is if inches. 

From 3 to 6 is \ waist. From W to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1 \ inches, Y back to Z is 
3.I inches. 

Measure waist, 2 to D and Z to 3 arid take out balance, \ inch, between 6 and 7, or \ 
inch for every inch the waist is smaller than the breast. 

Draw a line from K to 6 and K to 7, and shape front and side body. Sweep from 1 to 
4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. Draw a line 
from 8 to fashionable waist line. Draw a line from waist line to 4. Shape the side body 
reducing it \ inch at T and \ inch at blade line. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches; 9 to 10 is ij- inches. Draw a line from 4 
through 10 to 11. 4 to II is \ inch more than 1 to 2 1 . 8 to 12 is the same as _| to 1 1 . I )raw 
a line from 12 to II. 

Shape top of skirt dropping it { inch at X. and rounding it | inch over 10. 

Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 
18 to L and add \ inch. Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



57 




English Walking Coat 



58 THE AMERICAN G ARM E N I CUTTER 



THREE BUTTON FROCK 
For Stout Figure 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Strap, 13^ inches 

Natural waist, 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 \ inches 

Fashionable waist, 19 inches Blade, 13^ inches 

Full length, 38 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Waist, 40 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is gl inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 
38 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast, 20 inches. H to I is 2% inches. I to J is 1 inch. K is half 
way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square clown from L. Apply blade measure 
from B to L or wherever it comes to. 

Square up from blade; from L to M is .'. the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1^ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is \ 
breast. Q to R is i£ inches. Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to Sis finch: A 
to U is if 1 inch more than J breast. 

Square up from U. U to V is f inch. Draw a line from U to S. E to 1 is ^ inch more 
than I breast. F to 21 is the same as E to I.. Shape back. 

From 2 to 3 is i| inches; 3 to 6 is | waist. 

Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure plus { inch, 13.} inches. 
I )ra\v a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 14 is ,1 breast. 14 to 13 is \\ 
inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. 

T7 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is \ 
inch less than V to S. 

N to 19 is \ breast; square out from 19 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye 
Shape side body, reducing it ] inch at T a'nd \ inch at blade line. From W to X is i waist 
X to Y is 1 ) inches. Y to Z is 3.^ inches. 

Square down from Y. Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3. There being nothing to take 
out in this case between 6 and 7, omit taking out a fish, and instead take out ^ inch between 
i> and 7. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at 1 inch back from N. 

Draw a line from where sweep crosses line 8 to side of front. From front edge to 2j is 
' waist. Take out \ inch V ai 27. 

Draw a line from 4 through 27 and 8; note the V at 27 is to be taken out only when the 
waist is as large or larger than the breast. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to 9; 3 to 9 is 9 inches; 9 to 10 is i£ inches. 

Draw a line from 4 through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is the same as 1 to 21. 8 to 12 is the 
same as 4 to 1 1. 

Draw a line from 12 to 11. Shape top of skirt reducing it \ inch at 8 and rounding it § 
inch over 10. 

Cut out the back and place point V on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 
18 to L and add } inch. 15.V inches. 

Sweep from wherever the back reached on front and reshape shoulder. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from 1 inch above J through N to 25. N to 25 is the same as A to V. 
25 to 26 is i£ inches; 25 to 24 is 2 inches; shape as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



59 



?(<H^ 




Three Button Frock for Stout Figure 



60 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THREE BUTTON FROCK 
For Corpulent Figure 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, cjh inches Strap, 13} inches 

Natural waist, 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 \ inches 

Fashionable waist, 19 inches Blade, 13^ inches 

Full length, 38 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Waist, 42 inches 

Square lines A — V and A — E. 

A to B is 9-J- inches; B to C is J inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to 1 1 is 
38 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and 11. G is half way between A and B. 

B to 25 is half of full breast, 20 inches. 11 is half way between B and 25. H to J is 3^ 
inches. 

For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast, advance \ inch at J. In this case, 
where the waist is 2 inches larger than the breast, advance from J to L ^ inch, also advance 
the same i inch from 25 to 24. From 24 to 5 is 2 k inches; from 5 to I is 1 inch. Square 
down from 5. 

Apply blade measure from B to J, 13 \ inches; and to L, ^ inch. Square up from L. E to 
AI is J the distance from A to B, 19 on Oth division. 

O is half way between B and J. O to P is 1} inches; square up from P. P to Q is } 
breast; Q to R is iA inches; Q to T the same. Square out from R. R to S is J inch. 

A to V is J inch more than ^ breast. Square up from V. V to U is § inch. Draw a 
line from V to S. E to 1 is \ inch more than J breast. 1 1 to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape 
back. 

Measure back A to U, apply to L and up to N, strap measure plus \ inch, 13A inches. 
Draw a line from X to ( \. Square forward from X. X to 23 is ,' breast, jt, to 22 is 1 ! 2 
inches. Draw a line from 22 to E 

Sweep from 26 to 20, pivoting at 17. N to 20 is \ inch less than U to S. N to 15 is $ 
breast. Square out from 15 by 17. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From W to X is \ waist. X to Y is 1] inches. Y back to Z is 3^ inches. From 2 to 3 
is 1 1 inches. 

Shape side bod}', reducing \ inch at T, and \ inch at blade line. 3 to 6 is ^ waist. 6 to 
7 is ^ inch, or measure back 2 to D and Z to 3 for waist measure. 

From H to K take out the half inch increase from J to L. 

Draw lines from H to 6 and from K to 7. Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep 
from 4 to 18, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from N. 

Draw a line from side of front to where sweep crosses line at 18. From front edge to 
[9 is \ waist. Take out J inch V at 19. Draw a line from 4 through 19 to front edge, and from 
waist line to 4. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches, 9 to 10 is 1^ inches. Draw a line from 4 
through 10 to F. From 4 to F is the same as 1 to 21. 

Shape top of skirt, dropping it } inch at 18. From 18 to 12 is the same as 4 to F. Draw 

- in mi 12 to F. Finish skirl, rounding it § inch over IO. 

Cut out back, place point U on point N. Measure over shoulder from G through 26 
to L, 15I plus \ inch, 15A inches. Sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



61 



22 23 N 



Y (\KS£ 




Three Button Frock for Corpulent Figure 



62 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



SINGLE BREASTED FROCK, STRAIGHT FRONT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Over shoulder, 13^ inches 

Natural Waist, \6\ inches Blade, 12^ inches 

Fashionable waist, i8| inches Breast, 36 inches 

Full length, 40 inches Waist, 32 inches 

Strap, 12 inches Seat, 37 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is 9 inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is \6\ inches; A to E is 18J inches; A to F 
is 40 inches. 

Square out from B. C. D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast — 18 inches. H to I is 2\ inches; I to J is 1 inch. K is half 
way between B and H — 9 inches. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from I and L. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L — \2\ inches. Square up from L. L to M is \ 
the distance from A to B — 18 on 6th division. Square up from M. 

O is half way between B and L. O to P is 1} inches; square up from P. P to Q is -J 
breast; Q to R is 1^ inches; O to T the same. Square out from R; R to S is f inch. A to U 
is f inch more than \ breast. Square up from U; U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from U to S. 
E to 1 is \ inch more than \ breast. F to 21 is the same as E to I. Shape back. 

Measure back A to Y. apply to L and up to N, strap measure. 12 plus \ inch — \2\ 
inches. Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. 

N to 14 is \ breast, 14 to 13 is i\ inches. 

Draw a line from 13 to J. 

17 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. 

N to 20 is \ inch less than V to S. Place square at K and 18 and square forward. Shape 
gorge, shoulder, and armscye. 

From 2 to 3 is if inches in this case. From 3 to 6 is \ waist. From W to X is \ waist; 
X to Y is 1 1 inches; Y back to Z is 3! inches Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3 and take 
out balance between 6 and 7, in this case \ inch. 

Draw lines from K to 6 and K to 7 and shape front and side body. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back 
from N. Shape the bottom of front. 



THE SKIRT 

Draw a line from 8 to 4. Square down from 4. 4 to is inches; 9 to 10 is 1 \ inches. 
Draw a line from 4 through ro to 11. 4 to 1 1 is \ inch more than T to 21. 8 to 12 is the 
same as 4 to [I. Draw a line from 12 to II. Round the skirt % inch over 10. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



63 




Single Breasted Frock, Straight Front 



64 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 10 inches Strap, i3i inches 

Natural waist, 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 inches 

Fashionable waist, 19 inches Blade, 13! inches 

Full length, 42 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Waist, 36 inches 

Square lines A — V and A — E. 

From A to B is the scye depth, 10 inches; from B to C is f inch; from A to D is natural 
waist, 17 inches; A to E is fashionable waist, 19 inches; A to F is full length, 42 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way hetween A and B. 

From B to H is half of full breast, jo inches; H to I is 2.\ inches. Square down from I. 
K is half way between B and H; from K to L is 3^ inches; square down from L to get W. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^ inches. Square up from L. 

From L to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

O is half way between B and L. From O to P is \\ inches. Square up from P. 

From P to Q is \ breast. From Q to R is \\ inches. From Q to T is the same. 

Square nut from R. From R to S is £ inch. 

From A to V is % inch more than \ breast. Square up from V. V to U is § inch. Draw 
a line from U to S. 

From E to 1 is \ inch more than J breast. From F to 21 is the same as from E to 1. 

Shape the back as represented. 

Measure distance from A to U, apply same to L and up to N, strap measure plus 4 inch, 
13! inches. 

Draw a line from N to G to get t8. Square forward from N. From N to 22 is J inch 
more than }■ breast. Draw a line from 22 to I. 

17 is half way between 1. and M. Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17; from N to 20 is 
4 inch less than from U to S. Place the square at K and 18 and square forward for gorge. 

Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. From W to X is i waist; X to Y is \ inch. Y 
back to Z is 2\ inches. 

From 2 to 3 is if inches; from 3 to 6 is \ waist. Measure waist from 2 to D. apply same 
to Z and back to 3. and take out balance between 6 and 7. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T; sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at a point 1 inch back 
from N. 

Shape the side body, reducing it r } inch at T, and ] inch at blade line, and finish bottom 
of front as represented. 

THE SKIRT 

Draw a line from 8 to 4. square down from 4 to 0. square down from 8 by the waist line. 

From 4 to 9 is 9 inches; square (Hit from <>. From 9 to 10 is 1 J inches. Draw a line 
from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from 1 to 21. From 8 to 12 is the 
same as from 4 to 1 t. Draw a line from 12 to 1 r and round the skirt J inch at 10. 

THE REVER 

Draw a line parallel with X — I, make the width of the rever 2^ inches at the waist, 3^ 
inches at J and 2f inches at 10 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from the lapel crease through X to 24. From X to 24 is the same as from 
A to U. Square down from 24. From 24 to25 is 1] inches. From 24 to 23 is 2 inches. 
Make the width of tin- collar at the notch i'{ inches. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



65 




Three Button Double Breasted Frock 



66 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK 
For Stout Figure 

The measurements by which this draft is 'produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, y^ inches Strap, 13 j inches 

Natural waist. 17 inches Over shoulder, 15 j inches 

Fashionable waist 19 inches Blade 13! inches 

Full length, 4-' inches Breast, 40 inches 

Waist, 40 inches 

Square lines A — V and A — E. 

A to B is g\ inches; B to C is \ inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to F is 
42 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 
B to II is half of full breast. 20 inches. N to I is 2\ inches. 

K is half way between B and II. K to L is 3| inches. Square down from I and I.. 
Apply blade measure from B to L. Square up from L. 

L to M is I the distance from \ to B, 19 on 6th division. Square up from At. 
( ) is hall way between B and I.. O to P is 1 \ inches. Square up from P. 
P to Q is ! breast. O to R is U- inches. Q to T is the same. 
Square out from l\. I\ to S is '■} inch. 

A to A" is : l inch more than I breast. Square up from V. V to U is | inch. Draw a 
line from V to S. 

E to 1 is I inch more than | breast. 11 to 21 is the same as E to 1. Shape the back. 
VIi asure back A to U, apply to 1. and up to X. strap measure 1 3 J plus { inch, 13! inches. 
Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. 

N to 22 is \ inch more than 1 breast. Draw a line from 22 to I. 17 is half way be- 
tween L and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. 
X to 20 is ] inch less than from U to S. 
Shape shoulder and armscye. 

Place a square on K and 18, square forward for gorge. 2 to 3 is i{ inches. 3 to 6 is 
] waist. W to X is l waist. X to A' is ] inch; Y back to Z is 2! inches. 
Measure waist from 2 to D and from Z to 3. 

There being nothing left to take out, omit the fish and take out \ inch instead between 
6 and 7. 

Shape the side bod)', reducing it \ inch at T and J inch at blade line. 
Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. 

Sweep from 4 to [3, pivoting at 1 inch back from X. Draw a line from 13 to side of 
front and shape bottom of side body. 

From 8 p. 1 1 is 1 inch less than I waist. Take out J inch V at 14. Draw: a line from 
4 through 1 1 to X. 

THE REVER 
Draw a line parallel with X — f. make the width of the rever 2! inches ai 8, 3.1 inches 
al I, and 2* inches at 1 9. 

THE SKIRT 
Square down from 4. | to . ( is 9 inches, o to 10 is 1 1 inches. Draw a line from 4 
through i<> to 1 1 . 1 to 1 1 is the same as 1 to 21. 

Square down front of skirt by waist line. X to 12 is the same as 4 to 11. 
Draw a line from 12 to 11. Round the skirt § inch at 10. Cm out the back. 

e point Q on point X. ( let over - shoulder measure from (', through 18 to L, plus 
J inch. 15! inches. Sweep to 20 and reshape shoulder. 

Till' COLLAR 
I )ra\v a line from crease through X to 24. X to 21 is the same as A to I". 
24 to 25 is 1 ! in- lie 24 to v is :inches. Shape collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



67 




Double Breasted Frock for Stout Figure 



68 TH E A M E R I C A N C A R .1/ E N T CU T T E R 



:\\ this (In 


ift 


is ]>n iduced arc as fi illovvs: 






inches 






Strap, 


13 '. 


inches 


inches 






( >\ er shoulder. 


'5! 


inches 


inches 






Blade, 


'3* 


inches 


inches 






Breast. 


40 


indies 


Wins 


t. 


42 


inches 






-E. 













THREE BUTTON DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK 
For Corpulent Figure 

The measurements by which this 
Scye depth, g\ 

Natural waist, 17 
Fashionable waist i<; 
Full length, 42 

Square lines A — V and A- 

A to B is g\ inches; B to C is •'; inch; A to 1) is natural waist. 17 inches: A to E is fash- 
ionable waist, iq inches; A to F is full length. Square out from 1!, C, D, E and F. G is 
half way between A and B. B to 22 is half of full breast, 20 inches. K is half way between 
B ami 22. K to 2d is 3^ inches. Square down from 26. 

For every inch that the waist is larger than the breasl advance ', inch front 26 to L. In 
this case, where the waist is two inches larger than the breast, the distance between 2(1 and 
L is -} inch. Square down from L. 

Advance the same. | inch., from 22 to 21. From 21 to T is 2.\ inches. Square 
down from T. Apply blade measure from B to 26, 13^ inches. Add .', inch to I. and square 
up. L to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

is half way between 1! and 26. O to P is 1} inches. Square up from P. 

P to Q is J breast. O to R is 1 \ inches. Q to T is the same. 

Square out from R. R to S is | inch. 

\ to V is \ inch more than \ breast. Square up from V. V to U is | inch. Draw a 
line from V to S. E to 1 is \ inch more than \ breast. Shape back. 

2 to 3 is 1 J inches. 3 to '1 is | waist. 

Measure back A to U, apply to L and up to N, strap measure 13} plus ] inch. 13] inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from N. N to 32 is \ inch more than ,1 
breast. Draw a line from 7,2 to T. 17 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 18 
to 20. pivoting at 17. N to 20 is j inch less than from U to S. 

I 'lace a square on K and 18, square forward for gorge. Shape gorge, shoulder and 
armscye. W to X is \ waist. X to Y is j inch. Y back to 7. is 2J, inches. 

Measure waist from 2 to 1) and from Z to 3. 

There being nothing left to take out, omit the fish and take out \ inch instead between 
6 and 7. Shape the side body, reducing it \ inch at T and j inch at blade line. 

Sweep from 1 to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 14, pivoting at a point 1 inch back 
from X. Draw a line from I 4 to the side of front. 

8 to 13 is 1 inch less than \ waist. Cut out \ inch V at 13. 

Draw a line from 4 through 13 to 8: Shape the bottom of side body. 

Between the front and side body at K take out the J inch that has been advanced be 
tw een 26 and I .. 

THE REVER 

Draw a line parallel with I — X. 

Make the width of the rever 2'] inches at 8; _\\ inches at J . and 2| inches from X to 19 

THE SKIRT 

Square down In mi 4 to 9. From 4 to 9 is 9 inches. From 9 to 10 is \\ niches 

1 )raw a line from 4 through to to 11. 410 11 is | inch more than from E to F. 8 to 
12 is the same as from 4 to 11. Square down front of skirl by waist line. 

Draw a line from 12 to 1 1 and finish skirt. rounding it % inch at to. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a hue from 31 through N to 28. N to 28 is the same as A to V. Square down 
from 28. 28 to 29 is 1] inches. 28 to 27 is 2 inches. Finish collar as represented 



THE A MERiCAN GA RMENT CVl I ER 



m 




Double Breasted Frock fob Corpulent F gure 



70 THE AMERICA .V G A R M E N T C I ' T I I R 



TUXEDO COAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9I inches Over shoulder, 14;; inches 

Waist, 17 inches Blade, 13! inches 

Full length, 30 inches Breast, 39 inches 

Strap, 13 inches Waist, 35 inches 

Hip, 40 inches 

Square lines A — F and A — U. 

From A to J! is o , inches; from 1! to C is \ inch; from A to D is 17 inches; from A t<> E 
is 23 inches; to F is 30 inches. 

Square out from l'». C, D, E and 1*'. (i is half way between A and B. 

At D go in .', inch, draw a line up to G and down to F. 

From the line inside of I! to 1] is half of full breast, 19^ inches. II to I is j\ inches. 
Square down from I. 

J is half way between B and H. From J to K is 3} inches. Square down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from I! to K, 13 \ inches. Square up from K. 

From I\ to L is .', the distance from A to 1!. 

Square up from L. M is half way between K and L. 

P is half way between B and K; P to Q is 1 J inches; square up from Q. 

From Q to R is j breast ; from R to S is if, inches; square out from S. S to T is \ inch. 

From A to L* is | inch more than J breast. Square up from U ; U to V is •"' inch. Draw 
a line from V to T. 

Shape back. 

Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X. strap measure plus J inch, 13 J inches. 

Draw a line from X to G to get X ; square forward from N. 

Place the square at J and X and square forward through < > for gorge. 

Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is | inch less than from V to I 
Shape the gorge shoulder and armscye. 

From /. to 3 is 1] inches more than \ waist; from 3 back to 2 is 3^ inches. Square down 
from 2 to get 8. 

Measure hip from 9 to E and from 8 to jo. 20 plus \ inch, 20^ inches. 

Measure waist from 7 to the line inside of D and 2 to 6, 17', plus 1 inch, \%\ inches. 

Shape the side of front, reducing it \ inch at Q. Sweep from 12 to 15 pivoting at X 

THE COLLAR 

The break of the roll is 1 J inches above the pocket. Draw a line from the break to a 
point \ inch outside of X to 24. From X to 24 is the same distance as from A to \ . Square 
down from 24. -' | to 25 is 1 j inches. From 24 to 23 is \\ inches. Draw a line from 23 to 
3 and finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



71 




Tuxedo Coat, Shawl Collar 



72 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TUXEDO COAT, PEAKED LAPEL 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, g\ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade, [3 inches 

Seat, 23 inches Breast. 38 inches 

Full length, 30 inches Waist, 34 inches 

Strap, U4 inches Seat, 39 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to I! is the scye depth, (>.', inches; B to C is j inch; A to 1 > is 17 inches; A to E is 23 
inches; A to F is full length, 30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between \ and B. 

At D go in \ inch. I )raw a line up i<> < I and down to F. 

From the line inside of B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to 1 is 2}, inches; square 
di >\\ 11 fn 'in I. 

J is half way between Band II. J to K is 3^ inches; square down from K. 

Apply the Made measure from B t<> K 13 inches. Square up from EC. 

From 1\ to I. is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from L. M is half way bet- 
ween K and L. 

1' is half way between I! and K. I' to Q is i ] inches. Square up from Q. 

From 1 to R is \ breast; from K to S is 1 J inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. 

From A to U is \ inch more than | breast. Square up from L'. From U to V is | inch. 
I )raw a line from V to T. Shape the hack. 

Measure distance A to Y, apply same to K and up to X, strap measure plus J mch. 13 
inches. 

Draw a line from \ to G to get X. Square forward from \\ From X to \Y is \ inch 
more than \ breast. Draw a line from W to I. 

From X to < > is J breast. Draw a line from X through < > for gorge. 

Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is ] inch less than from V to T. 
Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From / to 2 is | inch more than J waist. From 2 hack to 3 is 2. 1 , inches. 8 is j\ inches 
I iack fn >m fn mi edge. 

Measure back 9 to E, apply to Sand back to to, seal measure plus }, inch.. 

Measure 7 to line inside of D, apply to 3 and back to 6, waist measure plus 1 inch. [8 
inches. Shape the side of forepart reducing it \ inch at ( ). 

Sweep from 12 forward, pivoting at X. Finish as represented. 




Tuxedo * oat, Peaked Lapel 



71- THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



FULL DRESS COAT, SHAWL COLLAR 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Strap, 12 inches 

Natural waist, if 4 inches Over shoulder, 13^ inches 

Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Blade, i-A inches 

Full length, 40 inches Breast, 30 inches 

Waist, 32 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — E. 

From A to B is the scye depth, 9 inches; from B to C is 'i inch; from A to D is natural 
waist, K<\ inches; A to E, fashionable waist, is i84 inches; A to F, full length, is 40 inches. 
Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is halt way .between A and B. 
From B to H is half of full breast, 18 inches. From 11 to I is \\ inches. 
K is half way between B ami Ft. K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. 
Apply the blade measure from B to L, 12^ inches. Square up from E. 

is half way between 1'. and E. From O to P is 1 { inches. Square up from P. 
From P to [J is .} breast. <J to R is ii inches. Q to 1 is the same. From E to I is \ 

inch more than \ breast. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line from 1 to 21. From 
A to U is i inch more than i breast. Square up from L'. I to \ is | inch. Draw a line 
from L* to S. Finish as represented. 

From E to M is i the distance from A to B. 17 is halt way between L and M. Square 
up from M. 

Measure distance A to V, apply same to L and up to N, strap measure 12, plus \ inch, 
12] inches. 

1 >raw a line from X to G to get 18. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 17. Square for- 
ward from X. From X to 24 is !, inch less than l breast. Draw a line trom 24 to J. 

From X to [9 is i breast. Draw a line from 18 through iy for gorge. From X to -'O 
is I inch less than from V to S. Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From _' to 3 is 1^ inches. From 3 to is I waist. From \\ to X is j] inches less than 
\ waist. X to Y is 1} inches. 

Measure waist from _' to D and X to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 1(>, pivoting at a point 1 inch back 
from X. From 16 to 8 is f inch. Draw lines from K to 6 and K to 7. 

Shape the side body, reducing it \ inch at T and .[ inch at blade line. 

Shape bottom of front from 8 to waist line. 

THE SKIRT 

Square down from 3 to 1;. From 3 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. o to 10 is 1 ', 
inches. Drawn line from 4 through 10 to 11. From 4 to 11 is the same as from 1 to 21. 
Shape the top of skirt. From 16 to 13 is \'\ inches. From 13 to 14 is '. the distance from 
[6 to 4. From 11 to 1 _> is the same as from 13(014. 1 )raw a line from 14 to 12. 

Finish the skirt, rounding it § inch at 10. 

Till'. REVER AND COLLAR 

Draw .1 straight line from 24 through I to the waist. Make the width of the rever at the 
waist 1 : , inches and 2 inches from I to J. Draw the shawl crease through X to 25. 

In mi X to 25 is the same as from A to \ '. Square down fn un 25. 25 to 26 is 1 ] inches. 
From 25 to 15 is [J inches. Draw a line from 15 to I and shape as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



75 




Full Dress Coat. Shawl Collar 



76 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

FULL DRESS COAT, PEAKED LAPEL 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, o! inches Strap, I2| inches 

Natural waist, [O^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Fashionable waist, 18^ inches Blade, 13 inches 

Full length, 40 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Waist, 34 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — E. 

\ tn i'. is scye depth, 9^ inches; 1! to C is : ; inch; A to D is natural waist, id! inches; A 
tn E is fashionable waist, ii>.[ inches; A to F is full length, 40 inches. 

Square out from 1!, C, D, E anil F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to II is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to 1 is 1 ! inches. 

K is hall waj between I! and 1 1 ; K to L is 3! inches. Square down from L. 

Appl) the blade measure from B to L, 13 inches. Square np from L. L to M is ! the 
distance from A to 11. 17 is half way between I. and M. ( > is half way between 1'. and I. 
( ) to P is 1 ] inches. 

Square up from I'. P to is j of breast measure. Q to R is [| inches, Q to T the 
same. 

Square out from R; R to S is \ inch. 

V to U is \ inch more than \ of breast measure. Square up from I'. U to V is g inch. 
I >raw a line from U to S. 

E to 1 is J inch more than ! breast measure, F to 21 is the same as E to 1. Draw a line 
from 1 to 21. Shape the back. 

Measure back A to V. apply to L and up to N, strap measure pins J inch, i_ >: ; inches. 

I )ra\\ a line from N to G; square forward from X. X to 24 is | inch less than ,'., of breast 
measure; draw a line from 24 to I. X to 10 is 1 of breast measure. 

Draw a line from 1 8 through 19 for gorge. 

Sweep front t8 to 20, pivoting at [7; N to 20 is | inch less than V to S. 

Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From _' to 3 is 1 : ; inches. 3 to 6 is [of waist measure. 

From VV to X is 2] inches less than ! of waist measure. X to front edge is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from _'4 through I and X. 

Measure back 2 to I > and X to 3. fake out balance between <> and 7. 

Shape the side body, reducing it J inch at T and j inch at blade line. 

Sweep from 1 to 4, pivoting at T. 

Sweep from 4 to [6, pivoting at a point 1 inch back from X. 

From 16 to 8 is £ inch. I 'raw a line front 8 to the side of forepat 1 

THE REVER 

Draw a line parallel with I — 8. 

Make the width of the rever 1 : f inches at 8, _'! inches at J and _' j inches at 15. 

THE SKIR I 

Square down from 3 to 9. 3 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out fn im 9. 9 to 10 is i£ inches. 
Draw a line from |. through 10 to 1 1. From 4 to 1 1 is the same as fn mi 1 to 21. Shape 

the top of skirt. 

b'ri mi [6 to 1 3 is [4 inches. 

loom [3 to 1 1 is ! the distance from 1(1)04. 1 1 to 12 is the same as [3 to 14. 

I >raw a line from 14(0 1 _». 

Finisll skirt , rounding it g inch at 10. Cut out the back, and place point V 011 point X. 

Get the over shoulder measun from G through t8 to I. plus [ inch. 1.4! inches. Re- 
shape shi inkier. 



THE A M E R I C A N G . I R .1 / E N T CUTTER 



77 



m — i? 




Full Dress Coat 



7S T II E I 1/ E R 1 CA N G A R .1/ E N T CU TTER 



A FEW WORDS IN REGARD TO WAIST SUPPRESSION 

In order to get the proper amount of blade pocket, or roundness over the blade bone, 
we herewith place 3 different diagrams for 3 different figures, namely, the normal, the il.it 
back and the round Made to show how the waist suppression changes the blade fullness'. 

DIAGRAM A 

Idle measurements of this draft are: 

Blade, 13 inches 

Breast, 38 inches 

Waist, 34 inches 

This Made is considered normal for the breast measure as it leaves the distance from L 

to I c)l inches, or .', breast. The distance from _> to 3 is 1 ;; inches. 

1 ut out the back and place point O to side body and point 1 to 4. and the distance from 
28 to jo over-lapped is y inch. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



79 




DIAGR KM \ 
Normal Blade 



80 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DIAGRAM B 



FULL BREAST-FLAT BACK 



Blade, 12^ inches 

Breast, 38 inches 

Waist, 34 inches 

The distance from 27 to J is 10 inches, showing the person to be full breasted with flat 
back, in which case proceed as follows: 

From 2 to 5 is if inches; from 27 to L is J inch; take out l of that distance, -]- inch, and 
place it from 5 to 3. 

The distance from 6 to 7 will be f inch; cut out the back and place point T to side body 
and point I to 4, and the distance from 28 to 29 over-lapped is a little less than i inch, thus 
showing a small blade pocket. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



81 




DIAGRAM B 
1m i I Breast, Flai Back 



82 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



FULL BACK FLAT BREAST 



DIAGRAM C 



Blade measure from B to 26 is 13^ inches. 
Breast, 38 inches 

Waist, 34 inches 

The distance from 26 to J is 9 inches, showing the person to be full backed and fiat 
breasted. 

Proceed as follows: 
From 2 to 3 is if inches. 
From L to 26 is A inch. 

Take \ inch off from 3 to 5, which is | the distance from L to 26, and take out balance of 
waist between 6 and 7. 

Cut out the back and place point T to sidebody and point I to 4 and the distance from 
28 to 29 over-lapped is f inch, showing a large blade pocket. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE 



TER 83 




DIAGRAM C 
Full Back, Flat Breast 



84 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth. oi inches Over shoulder, 14,} inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade. 13 inches 

Full length. 42 inches Breast. 38 inches 

Strap, 1 -'ii inches Waist. 34 inches 

Hip. 39 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and % inch over short measures. 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

From A to Bis \o\ inches; B to C is % inch; from A to D is [7 inches; A to E is 23 
inches; A to F, full length, is 42 inches. G is half way between A and B. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. 

From B to 11 is half of full breast. jo\ inches. 

H to 4 is 2 A inches; 4 to 1 is _' inches. Square down from 4 and I. 

} is half way between B and 11. J to K is 3.! inches. Square down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K. 13 phis ; ] inch, 13] inches. Square up from K. 

From K to L is .', the distance from A to 1'.. Square up from L. M is half way be- 
tween K and L. 

P is half way between B and K. P to Q is 1 A inches. Square up from Q. 

From O to 1\ is { breast. R to S is i-J inches. Square out from S. S to T is : ; inch. 
From A to U is : J inch more than .' breast. Square up from I'. 

U to V is | inch. I 'raw a line from V to T. Shape the back. 

Measure distance from A to V, apply same to K and up to X, strap measure 12^ plus I 
inch. iyl inches. 

1 )raw a line from X to G to get X. 

Square forward from X. From X to 141s ,' ; breast. 14 to 13 is 2A inches. Draw a 
line from 13 to I. 

From X to ( ) is i breast. Square forward from by M. 

Sweep from X to Y, pivoting at M. From X to Y is j inch less than from V to T. 
Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From Z to 5 is A waist. From 3 to 3 is 2 \ inches. From 3 back to 2 is 4.I inches. 8 
is 4. l ,-mehes back from the front edge. Shape the front. 

Measure back from 10 to K. appl) same to 8 ami back to 10. scat measure. 21 plus A 
inch. 2 1.', inches. From 10 to 9 is r{ inches. Square up from <; to o. Draw a line from 6 
through 10 to [2. 

Shape the side of front reducing it J inch at Q. Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at J. 

Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. 

Till-'. COLLAR 

1 (raw a line from the lapel crease through X to 21. X to 21 is the same distance as from 
A to V. Square down from 21. From 21 to 22 is 1 | inches. 2 1 to 20 is 2 | inches. Finish 
as ri'i iresented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT' CUTTER 



85 




*®~ 



Chesterfield Overcoat 



86 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TOP COAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13I inches 

Full length, 35 inches Breast, 39 inches 

Strap, 13 inches Waist, 35 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and § inch to the short measures. 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

From A to B is ioj inches; B to C is ; ; inch; A to 1 ) is 17 inches; A to E is 23 inches; A 
to F is 35 inches. 

( i is half way between A and B. 

Square out from 1'., C, D, E and F. 

From B to II is half of full breast, 21 inches. 

1 1 to I is 4. 1 , inches. Square down from I. J is half way between I! and H. J to K is 
3^ inches. Square down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13J plus , ; inch, 14 inches; square up from K. 

From K to L is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from L. 

P is half way between I', and K. P to Q is ih inches. 

Square up from Q. Q to R is } breast. R to S is 1 \ inches. Square out from S. S 
to T is f inch. 

\ to (J is ij inch more than | breast. Square up from U. U to \Y is | inch. Draw a 
line from \Y to T. 

Shape the back. 

Measure distance A to W, apply same to K and up to M. strap measure 13 plus 1 inch, 
14 inches. 

Draw a line from Al to G to get 22. 

Square forward from Al. M to 12 is ,', breast; 12 to 11 is 2^ inches. Draw a line 
from 1 1 to I. 

From Al to X is 1 breast. is half way between K and J.. Square forward from N 
by ( ). 

Sweep from 22 to 6, pivoting at O. From M to 6 is \ inch less than W to T. Shape 
tin- gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

A is where the armscye crosses line B. S [uare down from \' to X; from A" to X is 12 
inches. 

Square out from \. From \ to X is 3 inches. 

From X to A' is i inch. Draw lines from \ through A" and from V through Z. 

brum A' to J is as much extra back as you wish to add to a box coal . from \ inch to 1 J- 
inches. Reshape back as from broken to solid lines. 

From A' to 2 is the same length as from J i<. 1 . Sweep from 2 to 7, pivoting at Al. 

From to to 9 is \ waist; from 9 to 8 is 2.\ inches. Finish the front. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from lapel crease through M to 1 |. Al to [4 is the same as from A to W. 
Square clown from 14. 14 to 15 is 1 | inches. 14 to 13 is i\ inches. Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



s7 




Top Coat 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



FULL BOX OVERCOAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth. 9-V inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13 inches 

Full length, 50 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Strap, ' 12'i inches Waist, 32-36 inches 

Add 3 inches to breast and waist measures, and f inch over all short measures. 

Scpiare lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is io| inches; B to C is % inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to F is 50 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D and F; G is halfway between A and LI. 

B to H is half of full breast, joA inches. 

H to I is 2 A inches; 1 to J is 2 inches. 

Square down from 1 and J. 

W is half way between 1'. and 1 1 : W to K is 3! inches; scpiare down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K. plus % inch, 13^ inches. 

Scpiare up from K; K to L is .', the distance from A to B, 20A on 6th division. 

P is half way between B and K. 

P to O is iA inches. 

Square up from Q< Q to R is j breast. R to S is 1 A inches. 

Square out from S; S to T is : i inch. 

A to U is |j inch more than I breast. Square up from U. 

U to V is I inch. 1 )raw a line from V to T. 

Measure back A to V, apply to K and up to O, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13I inches. 

Draw a line from ( ) to G. Square forward from O. 

to 12 is I breast. 12 to 1 1 is 2\ inches. Draw a line from 11 to J. 
M is half way between L and K. Sweep from 5 to o, pivoting at M. 
From O to 6 is ] inch less than V to T. 

From to X is \ breast. Scpiare forward from X by M. 

Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

4 is where the armscye crosses line P. Square down from 4 to X. 

4 to X is 12 inches. Scpiare out from X. 

X to Z is vV inches. X to Y is \ inch. 

Draw a line" from 4 through 7. to 2. Draw a line from 4 through Y to the bottom. 

From 4 to W is as much extra back as you want to allow for a box coat, from A inch to 
1 { inches. 

Draw a line from W to 1. Reshape back as represented 

10 to .» is .', waist. 9 to S is i\ inches. Shape the front. 

Sweep from 1 to 2, pivoting at 4. 

Sweep from 2 to 7. pivoting at ( ). 

Shape bottom of front. 

Cut out back and place point V on point O. 

Get over-shoulder measure from G through 5 to K. 14! inches, plus 1 inch. 15A inches. 
Reshape shoulder. 

THE COLLAR 

1 >raw a line from lapel crease through < I to 14. to 14 is the same as A to V. Square 
down from 14. 14 to 1 5 is 1 [ inches. 1 4 to 13 is 2 j inches. 

Shape collar as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



89 




Full Box Overcoat 



90 T II E . I M E RIC A N G A R M E A T C U T T E R 



INVERNESS 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Blade, 13 inches 

Full length, 50 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Strap, i2f inches Waist, i 2 '^ inches 

Add 3 inches to breast and waist measure and 5 inch to all short measures. 

Square lines A — E and A — V. 

A to B is 10 I inches; B to C is % inch; A to 1 ' is \~\ inches; A to E is 50 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D and E. F is half way between A and B. 

B to G is half of full breast, 20^ inches. 

G to H is 4^ inches. Square down from H. 

I is half way between B and G. I to J is 3| inches. Square down from J. 

Apply blade measure from B to J plus $ inch, 13I inches. Square up from J. J to K 
is l the distance from A to B. Square up from K. L is half way between J and K. 

P is half way between B and J. P to Q is 1^ inches. 

Square up from Q. 

From O to U is 1 inch. Q to R is } breast measure. 

R to S is 1^ inches. Square out from S. S to T is % inch. 

A to V is J inch more than ^ breast. Square up from V. 

V to W is ;'- inch. Draw a line from V to T. 

Square down from U to X. U to X is 12 inches. 

Square out from X. X to Z is 35 inches. 

X to Y is J inch. Draw a line from U through Y to 10. Draw a line from U through 
Z to 1 1. From 11 to 1 1 is the same as from U to 10. 

Shape back from A to W and from W through R to U. 

Measure distance A to W, apply to J and up to M, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13'j 
inches. 

Draw a line from M to F. Square forward from M. 

M to O is } breast; O to 17 is 2] inches.. Draw a line from 17 to H. 

M to N is i breast. Square forward from N by L. M to 1 is the same distance as 
from W to 36. 

T to 6 is J of the breast. Square out from 6. 

From 7 to 8 is \ waist. 8 to q is 2I inches. Shape the front. 

Sweep from 1 1 to 12, pivoting at M. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

THE CAPE 

Place a sheet of paper under the pattern and trace out as follows: 

From 1 to M, around the gorge, to crease of lapel. Hack from II is 2 | inches and 9 to 
8 is the same. 

Measure the inside sleeve length from J to 4. 

Sweep from 4 to 5, pivoting at M. Sweep from 4 to 3, pivoting at M. Extend line 1 
through 2 and B to 3. 

Finish as represented. 

Nick the back at line 6. 

THE COLLAP 

Draw a line from IT through M to 13. 1V1 to 13 is the same as A to W. 

Square down from 13. From [3 to 15 is 1 J inches. 

From 13 to 14 is 2 inches. 

Make the width of the collar at 16 two inches. 

Draw a line from 14 to 16 and finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



91 




Inverness 



92 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

DOUBLE BREASTED ULSTER 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Depth of scye, 10 inches Over shoulder, 15 inches 

Waist length, 17! inches Blade, 13^ inches 

Full length, 48 inches Breast, 40 inches 

Strap, 13] inches Waist, 36 inches 

Seat, 41 inches 

Add 3 inches over breast and waist and :; inch over all short measures. 

'Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is io| inches; B to C is f inch; A to D is i~S inches; D to E is 6 inches; A to F is 
full length, 48 inches. 

Square out from I'.. C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B in 11 is half of full breast measure, 21-i inches. 

H to 4 is i\ inches. 4 to I is \\ inches. 

Square down from 4 and 1. J is half way between B and II. J to K is 3^ inches. Square 
down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from B to K, 13^ plus % inch, 14^ inches. 

Square up from K. K to 1. is \ the distance from A to 1'.. 

Square up from L. M is half way between K and L. 

1' is half w:i\ between I! and K. P to is 1 A inches. Square up and down from Q. 

A to U is \ inch more than \ breast. 

Square up from V . V to V is | inch. Q to R is \ breast. R to S is \\ inches. Square 
out from S. S to 'I" is | inch. 

Draw a line from U to T. Shape the back. 

Measure distance A to V, apply to K and up to X, strap measure plus 1 inch, 14', inches 

Draw a line from X in (. to get X. Square forward from X. 

N to 14 is I breast. 14 to 13 is 5 inches. Draw a line from 13 to I. X to O is ^ breast. 

Square forward from O by M. Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. X to Y is \ inch 
less than V to T. 

Shape the gorge, shoulder and armscye, 

/. t<> 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 3 is 4;] inches. 3 to 2 is 7 inches. 

From front edge to 8 is the same as Iron. 3 to 2. 

-Measure back 10 to F, appl) to 8 and back to 10, seat measure. 44 inches. 

10 to 9 is 1 \ inches. Square up from n to 0. 

1 (raw a line from (> through 10 to 12. Shape the side of the front. 

In mi 6 to 1 2 is the same as from 7 to 11. 

Sweep from 12 to 15, pivoting at X. 

Between front and back at Q take out \ inch. 

Extend line from 4 — 5 up and take out V as indicated. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from lapel crease to \ inch beyond N. 

Extend line ( > — X to 21. 

From X to 2] is the same as from A to V. 

Square down from 21 to jj. From 21 to 22 is 5.I inches. From 21 to jo is 1 J inches. 

1 )raw a line from 21 down to V as marked. Shape the collar stand from 20 as indicated. 

Cul out the back. Place point V on point X. 

Get over shoulder measure from ( i through X to K, 15 plus 1 inch, id inches. 

Reshape sin mlder. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



93 




Double Breasted Ulster 



94 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

SINGLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9f inches Strap, 13 inches 

Natural waist, \-j\ inches Over shoulder, 14! inches 

Fashionable waist, 19^ inches Blade, clinches 

Full length, 50" inches Breast, 39 inches 

Waist, 35 inches 

Add three inches to the breast and waist measures, and | inch over all short measures. 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is io4 inches; B to C is $ inch; A to D is i;i inches; A to E is 19^ inches; A to 
F is so inches. 

Square out from B. C, D, F and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast. 2 1 inches. H to I is i\ inches. I to J is 2 inches. 

K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3-i inches. 

Square down from I and L. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L, 13^ plus f inch, 14 inches. 

Square up from L. 

L to M is \ the distance from A to B, 21 on 6th division. 

Square up from M. O is half way between B and L. O to P is \\ inches. Square up 
from P. P to Q is \ breast measure. to R is H inches, O to T is the same. 

Square out from R. R to S is $ inch. A to U is f inch more than \ breast measure. 

Square up from U. U to V is \ inch. Draw a line from U to S. 

F to t is 1 inch more than \ breast measure. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. 

Draw a line from 1 to 21 and shape back. 

Measure back A to V, apply to L and up to N, strap measure, plus 1 inch, 14 inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. 

Square forward from N. N to 14 is \ breast measure. 14 to 13 is 2% inches. 

Draw a line from 13 to J. \~ is half way between L and M. 

Sweep from 18 to 20. pivoting at 17. 

N to 15 is i breast measure, square forward from 15 by 17. 

N to 20 is 1 inch less than Y to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From 2 to 3 is i| inches. 3 to 6 is j waist measure. \Y to X is ^ waist measure. 

X to V is 2 1 , inches. Y back to 7. is 4J- inches. 

Measure waist 2 to D and Z to 3; take out balance between 6 and 7. 

Sweep from 1 to _t. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to 8, pivoting at I inch back from X. 

Draw a line from 8 to the side of front. 

Shape the side body, reducing it } inch at T and | inch at blade line. 

THE SKIRT 

1 >r;iw a line from 8 to 4. Draw a line from point 5 to waist line at 16 and square down 
to 9. 10 to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. 9 to to is 1 ' inches. Draw a line from id 
through 10 to 11 [6 to II is the same as t to 21. S to 12 is the same as 16 to 11. 

Square down from 8 by waist line. Square down the front of the skirt by the waist line. 

Shape bottom of skirt'. Round the skirt 5 inch at 10. 

Tut out the back. Place point V on noint N. 

Get the over-shoulder measure from G through 18 to L plus 1 inch, 15$ inches. 

THE COLEAR 
Draw a line from the lapel crease through N to 23. N to 23 is the same as A to V. Square 
down from 23. 23 to 22 is t J inches. 23 to 24 is 2} inches. 

At the notch make the collar 2 inches wide. Finish as represented, 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




Single Breasted Frock Overcoat 
or Single Breasted Surtout 



96 THE A M E RI CAN G A R M E N T C U TTER 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK OVERCOAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced arc as follows: 

Scye depth, 93 inches Strap, 13 inches 

Natural waist, 17.] inches Over shoulder, 14] inches 

Fashionable waist, ig\ inches Blade, 13] inches 

Full length. 50 inches Breast, 39 inches 

Waist, 35 inches 

(Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and ;, ; inch over all short measures.) 

Square lines A — E and A — U. 

A to B is ioi inches; B to C is '\ inch; A to D is \~\ inches; A to E is \n\ inches; A to 
F is 50 inches. 

Square out from B, C, I >, E and F. < ', ishalf way between A and B. 
B to H is half of full breast measure, 21 inches. 1 1 to 1 is 2 ! inches. 
K is half way between Hand II. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from 1 and L. 
Apply the blade measure from I'. to I.. 13] inches, plus ;] inch, 14 inches. Square up 
from L. 1. to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

( ) is half way between 1! and L. O to P is 1 J inches. Square up from P. 
I' to Q is I breast. Q to R is 1 \ incite-. Q to I' 1- the same. Square out from R. R 
t< ' S is '] inch. 

A i" U is I inch more than l breast. Square up from l". {' to V is | inch. Draw a 
line from U to S. 

E to 1 is J inch more than -J breast. F to 21 is the same as E to 1. 

Draw a line from 1 to 21 and shape back. 

Measure back A to A', apply to L and up to X. strap measure plus 1 inch, 14 inches. 

Draw a line from X 1 to G. Square forward from X. 

X to 13 is J inch more than }. breast. Draw a line from 13 to I. 

17 is hall way between I. and M. Sweep from [8 to 20, pivoting at 17. 

Pla* e the square at l\ and iX and square forward through 13 for gorge. 

X to 20 is ! inch less than V to S. Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye. 

From 2 to 3 is I :'} inches. From 3 to 6 is J waist. 

From W to X is | waist measure. X to Y is | inch. A' back to / is _>.', inches. 

Measure waist 2 to 1 ) and 7. to 3 and take out balance between 6 and 7. 

Sweep from 1 to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to X, pivoting at 1 inch back from X. 

I 'raw a line from X in the side of front. 

Shape the side body, reducing it [ inch at T and J inch at blade line. 

THE SKIRT 
Draw a line from 8 to 4. Draw a line from point 10 to waist line at 4 ami square down 
loo. \ to 9 is 9 inches. Square out from 9. 9 to 10 is 1 !, inches. Draw a line from 4 
through 10 to 11. 4 to 1 1 is tlie same as t to 21. 8 to 1 2 is the same as 4 to 11. Square 
down from X 1>\ waist line. Finish skirt rounding it | inch at 10. 

TIM' RFA'FR 
Draw a line parallel with X — I Make the width of the rever 2 : ; inches at the waist 
line, 1 inches at J, and 3 inches at [9. Square down the front of the skirt by the waist line. 
1 in "lit the back. Place point V on point X. Get over-shoulder measure from (i through 
r8 to L, over-shoulder measure plus 1 inch. i; : ; inches. 

THE C< >l I. \R 

I Maw a line from the lapel crease through X to 23. X to 23 is the same as \ 1. 1 V. Square 
down from 23. j,\ to _>_> is 1 | inches. 23 to 24 is 2 1 , inches. At 25 make the collar 2J inches 
wide. Finish as represented 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



97 




Double Breasted Frock Overcoat, or 
Double Breasted Surtout 



98 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



SINGLE BREASTED PALETOT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, <j| inches Strap, 13 inches 

Natural Waist, 18 inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Fashionable Waist, 20 inches Blade, 13^ inches 

Full length, 50 inches Breast, 39 inches 

Waist, 35 inches 

Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and | inch over all short measures. 

Square lines A — U and A — E. 

A to B is 10] inches; B to C is \ inch; A to D is 18 inches; A to E is 20 inches; A to F 
is so inches. 

Square out from I'., C, 1 >. E and F. < . is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast, 21 inches. H to I is >h inches. I to J is 2 inches. Square 
down from I and J. 

K is half way between B and H. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from L. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L. 13] plus | inch. 14 inches. Square up from L. 

I. to M is I the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

N is half way between B and L. N to O is 1 i inches. Square up from O. O to P is \ 
breast. P to O is 1^ inches. P to S is the same. 

Square out from O. O to R is f inch. 

E to T is £ inch more than I breast measure. 

Square down from T. 

A to U is I inch more than J breast measure. Square up from U. U to W is § inch. 

Draw a line from U to R. Shape the back. 

Measure back A to W, apply to L and up to X, strap measure plus 1 inch, 14 inches. 

Draw a line from X to G. Square forward from X. X to 23 is £ breast measure. 
23 to 22 is 2^ inches. 

Draw a line from 22 to J. 18 is half way between L and M. Sweep from 24 to Z, 
pivoting at 18. 

X to Z is \ inch less than W to R. 

X to Y is I breast. Square forward from Y by 18. Shape gorge, shoulder and arm- 
scye. 

From 14 to 6 is 1 \ inches. Square down from K. 

Shape the side body, reducing it 1 inch at S and j inch at blade line. 

Sweep from T to 5, pivoting at S. 

Sweep from 5 to 20. pivoting at t inch back from X. 

From t to 2 is \ waist measure. From 2 to 3 is j\ inches. 3 back to .4 is \\ inches. 

Measure waist 14 to D and 4 to 6, take out balance between 7 and 8. 

From 20 to 21 is g inch. Draw a line from 21 through the side of front to 9. Square 
down from o- Q to 10 is 9 inches. Square out from I O. 10 to 1 1 is 1 1 inches. Draw a line 
from through t i to 13. 

to 13 is the same as E to F. 

Sweep from 13 to 19, pivoting at X. Finish skirt rounding | inch from 1 1 to 12. 

Cut out the back. 

Place point W on point X. 

Het over shoulder measure from G through 24 to L, [4! plus ( inch, 15} inches. 

Sweep to Z and reshape shoulder. 



THE AMERICAN GARME N T C U T T E R 



99 




Single Breasted Paletot 



100 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

SINGLE BREASTED PADDOCK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Over Shoulder, 13^ inches 

Natural Waist, 17 inches Blade, 12% inches 

Fashionable waist, 19 inches Breast, 30 inches 

Full length, 50 inches Waist, 32 inches 

Strap, 12 inches Seat, 37 inches 

(Add 3 inches to the breast and waist measures and 4 - inch over all short measures.) 

Square lines A — V and A — G. 

A to B is 94 inches; B to C is | inch; A to D is i/i inches; A to E is 19 inches; A to G is 
50 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and G. II i> half way between A and B. 

From D to F is 6 inches always. Square out from F. From D to V is ] inch. 

Draw a line from Y to II. From the line just made at B to 1 is half of the full breast 
measure, 19^ inches. I to J is 2^ inches. J to K is 2 inches. Square down from J and K. 

L is half way between B and 1. E to M is 3^ inches. Square down from M. 

Apply the blade measure from the line inside of B to M, I2| plus jj inch, 13J- inches. 
Square up from M. 

M to N is ;', the distance from A to B, nj\ on 6th division. Square up from X. 

1' is half way between B and M. 1' to O is U inches. Square up from Q. Q to R is 
\ breast. R to S is 1^ inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. S to U is f inch. 

A to V is 4 inch more than \ breast. V to W is f of an inch. Draw a line from V to U. 

Y to X is \ breast. Square down from X. Shape the back. 

Measure back A to W apply to M and up to Z, strap measure plus 1 inch, 13 inches. 

Z to 3 is £ breast measure. Square forward from 3 by O. 

Draw a line from Z to IE Square forward from Z. Z to 20 is \ breast measure. 
2(1 to 25 is i\ inches. Draw a line from 25 to K. 

is hall way between M and N. Sweep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. 
Z to 2 is \ inch less than W to U. 

Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. 

From 4 to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 6 is 2] inches. 6 back to 7 is 4-^ inches. Shape 
the front edge. 

From 8 to 9 is 4]- inches. 

Measure back 12 to F and 9 to 13, seat measure 20 plus 1 inch. 21 inches. 

From X to 1 1 is 1 j inches. Draw a line from 11 through 13 to 14. 

Measure waist X to Y and 7 to 11, take out balance between 16 and 17. 

Shape the side of the front, reducing it \ inch at P and rounding \ of an inch over the 
line 13 and 14. 

From 11 to fashionable waist is : ^ of an inch more than X to fashionable waist. 

Sweep from 2~ to 14. pivoting at T. Sweep from 14 to 15. pivoting at Z. Shape the 
bottom. 

1 'ut out back, place point \V on point Z. 

1 ,et over shoulder measure from II through 1 to M, 13} plus i inch — \ \\ inches. 
Sweep to 2 and reshape shoulder. 

THE COLLAR 

Draw a line from 2^ through to 20. Z to 20 is the same as \ to W. Square down from 
20. 20 to 21 is 1 J inches. 20 to 22 is 2] inches. 
Shape as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



1(U 




i. Breasted Paddock 



102 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DOUBLE BREASTED PADDOCK 



lie measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 
Scye depth, 9^ inches Over shoulder, 14I 

Natural waist, iji inches Blade with allowance, 13 

Fashionable waist, ioi inches Breast, 38 

Full length, 50 inches Waist, 34 



inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 
inches 



Strap, \2h inches Hip, 40 

Add 3 inches to the breast, waist and hip, and 5 inch over scye depth, strap, over shoul- 
der and blade. 

Square lines A — V and A — G. 

A to B is \o\ inches; B to C is 4 inch; A to D is \"j\ inches; E fashionable waist; F hip; 
and G full length. 

Square out from B, C, D, E, F and G. H is half way between A and B. 

D to inner line is \ inch. 

Draw a line from the \ inch to II and down. 

From line inside of B to I is \ of full breast, 20| inches. I to J is -'', inches. J to 1\ is 
4 inches. Square down from J and K. 

L is half way between B and I 

L to M is 3! inches. Square down from M. 

Apply the blade measure from 1! to M, 13 plus \ niches. 1 y\ inches. 

M to N is \ the distance from A to B. 

Square up from N and up and down from M. 

I' is half way between B and M. P to Q is 1 \ inches. Square up from Q. O to R is \ 
breast. R to S is H inches. R to T is the same. Square out from S. 

S to U is 5 inch. 

A to V is J breast plus \ inch. V to \V is f inch. Draw a line from V to U. 

From D to X is \ breast. 

Square down from X. 

Finish back as represente 

Measure distance A to W 

Draw a line from Z to H. 
4i inches. O is half way between M an 

Su'eep from 1 to 2, pivoting at O. 

Z to 2 is -] inch less than W to U. 

Z to 3 is i breast. 

Draw a line from 1 through 3 for gorge. Shape gorge, shoulder am 

From 4 to 5 is .', waist : 5 to 6 is 4] inches; 6 to 7 is (>J inches. Draw 
and 24 to K. 

Extend line J — 5 up and take out V. 

Shape front edge and lapel. 8 to 9 is 6i inches. 

Square down from L. From \" to TI is 1] inches. Measure waist from X t( 
side of D, apply to 7 and back to 11. Takeout balance between 16 and 17. 

Measure back 12 to F and 9 to 13, hip measure plus 1 inch. 

1 )raw a line from 1 1 through 13 to 14 and shape side. 

Sweep from I.| to 15. pivoting at Z. 

Finish as represented. 



to M and /.. strap measure plus 1 inch, 



Square forward fn 
X. 



im Z. Z to 25 is \ breast. 



inches. 

25 to 24 is 



armscye. 

ines from 25 to J 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



103 




Double Breasi ed Paddoi k 



104 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



MEASURING A HUNCHBACK 

In measuring this figure all the measures are taken the same as for any other person, 
except that after the scye depth is located place a square or a ruler at the back and let the 
upper end come opposite to where the collar ought to begin. See figure 6. 

Line B is the scye depth. 

Letter A is the height of the neck. 

Take the measure as from A to B, then begin to measure the scye depth as from C to B. 

The difference in the length in A — B and C — B is changed in the draft. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



LOE 




How to Measure a Hunchback 



IOC THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



STRAIGHT FRONT SACK FOR HUNCHBACK 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Height of neck, 8^ inches Over shoulder, 13 \ inches 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Blade, 13I inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Full length, 30 inches Waist, 36 inches 

Strap, 11^ inches Seat, 38 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — F. 

A to B is height of neck, 8^ inches; B to C is | inch; A to D is 17 inches; A to E is 23 
inches; A to F is full length, 30 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

At D go in j inch. Draw a line from G to D and square down. From the line just 
made at B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to I is 3 h inches. Square down from 1 

J is half way between I! and 11. I to K is 33 inches. 

Square down from K. 

Apply the blade measure from line inside of B to \V, 13^ inches. 

Square up from W. 

\\ to L is > s the measure of depth of scye, i8£ on 6th division. 

M is half way between W and L. P is half way between B and W. 

P to O is 1 \ inches. Square up from O Q to R is \ breast. 

R to S is 1 i inches. Square out from S. S to T is f inch. 

A tn I" is '■'; inch mure than J breast measure. 

Square up from L : . U to V is | inch. Draw a line from U to T. 

Shape back as represented. 

Measure distance A to V, apply to W and up to N, strap measure 1 1] plus ) inch, 1 ti 
inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. 

Sweep from X to V, pivoting at M. N to Y is .[ inch less than V to T. N to O is § 
breast measure. 

Square forward from O by M. 

Square forward from N. N to 13 is I- breast. 13 to 14 is ih inches. 

Draw a line from 14 to 1. Shape the gorge, shoulder, and armscye. 

From X to 5 is \ waist measure. 5 to 3 is 1 \ inches. 3 to 2 is 3! inches. 

8 is 3-1 inches from the front edge. 

Measure back 7 to D and 2 to 6, waist measure plus 1 inch. 

Measure 9 to E and 8 to 10, seat measure plus 1 inch. 

Shape side of front, reducing one half inch between back and front at O, sweep from 12 
forward, pivoting by N; finish bottom. 

The scye depth as from (' to B on figure is 9) inches. 

1 111 the back from G to R, and open it from G to 15 until the measure from B to 16 is 
9 J inches. 

(ut out the back and place point V on point N. 

Get over shoulder measure from (i through X to \\ . 13! plus j, 13. 1 , inches. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AME R I C AN GAR M E N T C U T T E R 



Wt 




Straighi Front Sack for Hunchback 



108 T H E A M E R I C A N G A R M E NT CUT T E R 



CASSOCK COAT 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Strap, 12J inches 

Natural waist, 17.I inches Over shoulder, 14^ inches 

Fashionable waist, \<>' 2 inches Blade, 13 inches 

Full length, 52 inches Breast, 38 inches 

Waist, 34 inches 

Square lines A — U and A — E. 

A to B is 9. 1 inches, B to C is If inch; A to D is \j\ inches; A to E is if)i inches; A to F 
is 52 inches. 

Square out from B, C, D, E and F. G is half way between A and B. 

B to H is half of full breast, 19 inches. H to I is 2^ inches. I to J is 1 inch. 

K is half way between I! and 11. K to L is 3^ inches. Square down from 1 and 1.. 

Apply the blade measure from B to L 13 inches. Square up from L. 

L to M is I the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 

O is half way between B and L. O to P is i\ inches. Square up from P. P to Q is ^ 
breast. 

Q to R is I^ inches. Q to T is the same. 

Square out from R. R to S is JJ- inch. 

A to U is 3 inch more than J breast measure. Square up from U. U to V is | inch. 
1 >raw a line from U to S. 

E to 1 is I inch more than J breast measure. F to 21 is 4 breast measure. 

Draw a line from 1 to 21. Shape back as represented. 

Measure distance A to Y. apply to E and up to X, strap measure plus \ inch. 13 inches. 

Draw a line from N to G. Square forward from X. X to 14 is ,' ; breast. From 14 
'ii 13 is 1 \ inches. Draw a line from 13 to J. 

5 is half way between E and M. Sweep from 18 to 20, pivoting at 5. From X to 20 is 
] inch less than from V to S. 

N to 15 is -J breast. Square forward from 15 by 5. 

Shape gorge, shoulder, and armscye. 

From 2 to 3 is 1 '■'; inches. From 3 to 6 is j- waist. 

From W to X is J waist. From X to Y is 1 ] inches. V back to Z is 3J inches. 

Measure waist 2 to 1). apply to Z and back to 3 for waist measure; take out balance be- 
tween 6 and 7. 

Sweep from i to 4. pivoting at T. Sweep from 4 to X. pivoting at a point 1 inch back 
from X. 

In mi 8 to 17 is .', inch. Draw a line from 17 through 33 to 16. 

Square down from 10. From id to is o inches. From 9 t'> 10 is 1 ^ inches. Draw 
a line from 16 through 10 to 1 1 . 

From 10 to 11 is the same as from E to F. 

Square down from front of skirt by waist line. 

From 8 to 12 is tin- same as fn mi 16 to 11. Shape the bottom of skirt. 

Cut out the back and place point V on point X. get over shoulder measure from G 
through 18 to L plus ] inch. 14JJ inches. 

Till-. COLLAR 

Draw a line from the top of lapel through N to 23. From N to 23 is the same as from 
\ to V From 23 t" 22 is 1 inch. From 24 to jt, is J inch. 
Finish collar, making the width of same in front t .', inches. 



THE A M ERIC A N GAR M ENT CUTTER 



109 




Cassock 



110 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THE SLEEVE 

Measure the arm scye. 

If for a sack coat without an underarm seam, add J inch to the measurement; for i 
stance, if the armscye measures 18 inches, make the sleeve iNA inches; but if there is an und< 
arm seam, then cut it according to measure. 

Square lines A — L and A — F. 

A to B is i i inches always. 

B to D is j of the armscye. 

D to C is I inch. 

C to E is ^ of the armscye. 

Square out from B and D. 

From C to II find h of the arm scye. 

H to I is -\ inch. 

Square down from I. 

II to J is i inch. 

Draw a line from E to J. 

A to K is J of the armscye. 

K to L is i of the armscye. 

Draw a line from C to K. 

From D to ( > and F to Q is i| inches. 

From B to P and F to R are i \ inches. 

Shape the sleeve from O through C through L to H. 

Shape the undersleeve from C through P to J. 

D to F is the inside length of the sleeve plus | of an inch. 

Square out from F. 

Fn 'in the line just made to X 1 is 1 § inches. 

M is half way between 1 and N. 

Measure width of sleeve from F to N. 

Add i inch for seams. 

1 >raw lines from 1 I to M and from J to M. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



111 




Sleeve 



112 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



HALF AND HALF SLEEVE 

Measure the arm scye. 

If for a sack coat without an underarm seam, add \ inch to the measurement. For in- 
stance, if the armscye measure is 18 inches, make the sleeve i8| inches, but if there is an 
underarm scam, then cut it according to measure. 

Square lines A — L and A — F. 

A to B is i \ inches always. 1'. to D is \ of the armscye. 

D to C is i inch always. C to E is .' of the armscye. 

Square out from B and D. 

From C to H is i of the armscye. 

H to I is \ inch. 

II to J is I inch. 

Square down from I. 

A to K is | of the armscye. 

K to L is \ of the armscye. 

Draw a line from C to K. 

Draw a line from E to J. 

From I) to F is the sleeve length. 

F to Q is 1 1 inches. 

Square out from Q. 

From F to N is the width of the sleeve plus i inch for seams. 

M is half way between I and \. 

Shape the upper sleeve from 1 1 to M and the undersleeve from J to M. 

Shape the upper sleeve from II through L to C. 
\ml the undersleeve from J t < » < '. 

Finish as represented, hollowing the sleeve | inch at the front seam. 



THE AMERICAN G A R M E NT CUTTER 113 



K L 




The Half axu Half Sleeve 



114 T H E A M E R IC AN G ARM EN T CUTTER 



SLEEVE FOR BOX OVERCOAT 

Measure the armscye before the back is cut out without extra addition to the back, and 
then measure the addition that the back makes. For instance, if the armscye measures 20 
inches without the addition, cut the sleeve 20, and add the difference of the addition of the 
back, to the undersleeve. 

Square lines A — L and A — F. 

A to B is \\ inches always. 

B to D is } of the armscye. 

D to C is 1 inch always. 

C to E is ^ of the armscye. 

Square out from D and B. 

From C to H is -i of the armscye. 

II to I is A inch. H to J is 1 inch. 

Square down from I. 

A to K is I of the armscye. 

K to L is -J of the armscye. 

Draw a line from C to K. 

Draw a line from E to J. 

From D to F is the length of the sleeve. 

Square out from F. 

From the line just made to N is if inches. 

From F to N is the width of the sleeve plus 1 inch for seam. 

A I is halfway between I and X. From D to P and F to R is 1 | inches. 

From 1 > to < ) and F to Q is r J inches in each case. 

Shape the upper and under sleeve, hollowing them £ inch at front seam. 

From J to t add the increase that the back has made, say \ inch. 

Shape the under sleeve from 1 to M and from 1 through P to C. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AM ERIC. IX GARMENT CUTTER 



115 




Sleeve for Box Overcoat 



116 THE AM URIC AN GARMENT CUTTER 



SINGLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Breast, 36 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 32 inches 

Strap, 12 inches To opening, 12^ inches 

Blade, ui inches Full length. _sA inches 

The blade measure in all vests should be cut A inch smaller than in the coat, the vest 
having but three seams, while the coat has five, therefore A inch less. 

Square line A — O and A — D. 

A to B is 9 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3A inches. 

Square out from B and C. 

C to U is ^ inch. 

Draw a line from U to E. From the line just made at B to F, half of full breast, is 18 
niches. 

From F to <1 is 2 inches. Square down from G. 

H is half way between 1! and F. H to I is 3 inches. 

Square down from I. 

Apply the blade measure from B to 1, \ inch less than the blade measure 12 inches. 

Square up from 1. I to J is \ the distance from A to B. 

Square up from J. 

M is half way between B and 1. M to X is \ inch. Square up from N. 

A. to O is :'| inch more than A, breast. Square up from < ). O to P is A inch. 

Measure distance A to I'. apply to I and up to EC, i_> inches net. 

Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q. 

K to R is J inch less than P to Q. 

Shape the back shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye A inch below Y and A inch 
inside of line I. 

From S to T is A the waist measure. 

Square forward from K. 

K t<> _' is |'inch more than ,' ; breast 

Draw a line from 2 to < r. 

K to L is I inch. 

K to V is the same as A to P. 

Measure the opening from V, 12 plus | inch, and to 7, JsA plus 1} inches, for make-up. 
jd'l inches. 

From T 1 . > X is 1 inch more than A waist; from U to \Y is the same. 

V is half way between B and ( i. 

Finish as represented. 



THE A M E R I C A N G ARM E X T C U T T ER 11? 




Single Breasted Vest — No Coi i \i; 



118 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITH NOTCH COLLAR 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9 inches Breast, 36 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Waist, t> 2 inches 

Strap, 12 inches To opening, 12^ inches 

Blade, 12^ inches Full length, 25^ inches 

The blade measure in all vests should be cut £ inch smaller than in coat, the vest having 
but three seams while the coat has five, therefore A inch less. 

Square line A — O and A — D. 

A to B is 9 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3 .', inches. 

Square out from B and C. 

C to U is f inch. 

Draw a line from U to E. 

From line just made at B to F is half of full breast, 18 inches. 

From F to G is 2 inches. 

Square down from G. 

H is half way between I! ami F. 

H to I is 3 inches. 

Square down from I. 

Apply the blade measure from B to I, A inch less than the blade measure, 12 inches. 

Square up in un I. 

I to J is ;'; the distance from A to B. 

Square up from J. 

M is half way between B and 1. 

M to N is -h inch. 

Square up from N. 

A to ( ) is f inch nmre than i breast. 

Square up from O. 

O to P is \ inch. 

Measure distance A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, 12 inches net. 

Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to Q. 

K to R is ] inch less than P to Q. 

Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye i inch below and ^ inch 
inside of line I. 

From S to T is £ waist. 

Square forward from K. K to V is I inch mure than ,', breast. Draw a line from \ 
to G. K to L is 2 inch. 

Measure the opening from A to P and K. to G, 12 plus f inch for opening; and to Z 25^ 
plus 1 j inches for make-up, 26| inches. 

From T to X is 1 inch more than -\ waist. 

l ; ii mi I' in W is 1 inch more than \ waist. 

Y is half way between I', and ( ]. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



11'.) 




Single Breasted Vest, With N : o ■ h ii.i.ak 



1*20 



THE AMERICAN G A R M E N 1 C U T T E fi 



SINGLE BREASTED VEST WITH NOTCH COLLAR 
For Stout Figure 



The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows 



Scye depth, 
Waist length, 
Strap, 
Blade, 



9^ inches 
I j inches 
13 inches 
13^ inches 



Breast, 
Waist, 
To opening, 
Full length, 



40 inches 

40 inches 

12^ inches 

27 inches 



Square lines A — O and A — D. 

A to B is scye depth 9 J inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D it. 3* inches. 
Square out from B and C. 
E is half way between A and B. 

From C to U is I inch. Draw a line from U to E. 
From line just made at B to F is half of full breast, 20 inches. 

F to G is 2 inches. H is half way between B and F. II to I is 3 inches. Square down 
from I to get S. 

From S to T is i waist. Square down from T. 

Apply the blade measure from B to 1, less \ inch, 13 inches. 

Square up from I. 1 to J is : \ the distance from A to B. Square up from J. 

M is half way between B and I. M to N is { inch. Square up from N. 

A to O is I inch more than ^ breast. Square up from O. O to P is h inch. 

Measure distance A to P, apply to I and up to K, strap measure net. 

Draw a line from K to E to get Q. Draw a line from O to O. 

From K to R is ', inch less than P to Q. 

Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye i inch below V am 

inside of I. 

Square forward from K. K to V is i inch more than > breast. 

Draw a line from V to G. K to L is f inch. 

Measure distance A to P, apply to K and ( i. opening plus f inch. 

I (own to Z full length plus 1 j inches. 

From T to X is 1 inch more than h waist. 

From U to W is 1 inch more than h waist. 

Y is half way between B and G. 

Shape the front and bottom of vest. 

The pocket is 5 inches from and parallel with bottom of front. 

tut the pocket open and crease over \ inch as from 1 t>> J. 

See diagram 7. 



inch 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



121 




Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collar 
For Stout Figure 



122 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Front of corpulent man's vest after "V" has been taken out at the pocket. 
Sec 1 >iagram 7. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 123 




1 )IAGRAM / 



124 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



40 


inches 


42 


inches 


14 


inches 


28 


inches 



SINGLE BREASTED VEST, NOTCH COLLAR 
For Corpulent Figure 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Depth of scye, g\ inches Breast, 

Waist length, vjk inches Waist, 

Strap, 13 inches To opening, 

Blade, 13^ inches Full length, 

Square lines A — D and A — S. 
■ A to B is oi inches; A to C is \j\ inches; C to D is 3^ inches. 
Square out from B and C; E is half way between A and B. 
C to F is \ inch. 
Draw a line from E to F. 

From line just made at 1! to G is half of lull breast, jo inches. 
J is half way between B and G. J to K is 3 inches. Square down from K. 
For every inch that the waist is larger than the breast advance \ from K to L; in this 
ase the waist being 2 inches larger than the breast the distance from K to L is ^ inch. 
Square down from L. apply the blade measure from B to K 13 inches, advance the extra 
half inch from K to L. 

L to M is \ the distance from A to B. Square up from M. 
G to H is the same as K to L, ^ inch. H to f is 2 inches. 
Q is bait way between 1'. and K. Q to R is \ inch. 
Square up from R. A to S is ;| inch more than \ breast. 
S to T is \ inch. 

Measure distance A to 1 . apply to L and up to X, strap measure, 13 inches net. 
Draw a line from N to E to get U. 
Draw a line from S to U. 
N to 3 is \ inch less than T to (J. 

Shape back, shoulder, and armscye, dr< >pping the armscye \ inch below V and \ inch in- 
side of line L. 

From W to X is \ waist. Square down from X. 

Square forward from X. X to 1' is \ inch more than \ breast. X to O is \ inch. 

Shape the front. 

At V take out \ inch that has been advanced from G to H. 

From X to 3 is 1 inch more than \ waist. From X to V is the same. 

Measure distance A id T, apply to X and dow 11 to I, opening, phis \ inch. 

Mown to /.. full length. 28 inches plus 1 | inch, 20) inches, 

Finish sides and bottom. 

The pi nke! is 5 inches above and parallel with bottom of front. 

Gut in the pocket and double over \ inch between 1 and 2. See diagram 7. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



125 




Single Breasted Vest With Notch Collae 
For Corpulent Figure 



126 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

FULL DRESS VEST, SHAWL COLLAR 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, gi inches Blade. 13 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Breast. 38 inches 

Strap, [2| inches Waist. 34 inches 

Full length, 26 inches 

Square lines A — O and A — D. 

A to B is scye depth, 94 inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to D is 3^ inches. 

E is half way between A and B. Square out from B and C. 

C to V is I inch. Draw a line from E to U. 

From the line just made at B to E is half of full breast, 19 inches. 

F to G is 2 inches. Square down from G. 

H is half way between B and F; H to I is 3 inches; square down from I. 
\]>ply the blade measure from B to I, 13 less J inch, u.] inches. 

I to J is .', the distance from A to B. Square up from J. 

M is half way between 1! and 1. M to X is !, inch. Square up from N. 

A to O is f inch more than J breast. Square up from O. O to P is | inch. 

Measure distance from A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, strap measure, u'l inches. 

Draw a line from K to E to get 0. Draw a line from O to Q. 

From K to R is \ inch less than P to O. 

Shape the hack, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye \ inch at Y and h inch in- 
side of line I. 

Square forward from K. 

From K to V is \ inch more than ]. of breast measure. Draw a line from V to < \. 

From K to L is ;] inch. From S to T is | waist measure. Square down from T. 

Measure back A to I', apply to K and down to I" for opening and down to Z, for full 
length plus I \ inches. 

Draw a line from 1\ to Z. 

Shape gorge and front edge. 

Fn 'in S to X is ] inch. 

U ii' W is 1 inch more than \ waist. 

Y is half way between B and G. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



127 




Single Breasted Full Dress Vest 
Shawl Collar 



1-28 THE AM ERIC A N G A R M E N T C U T T E R 



Blade, 


13 


inches 


Breast, 


38 


inches 


Waist, 


34 


inches 



DOUBLE BREASTED FULL DRESS VEST, SHAWL COLLAR 

Scye depth, <).', inches 

Waist length, 17 inches 

Strap, 12] inches 

Full length, 26 inches 

Square lines A — C and A — N. 

A to B is scye depth, q\ inches; A to C is 17 inches; C to 2 is 3.' inches. D is half way 
between A and B. 

Square out from B and C. 

C to V is I inch. Draw a line from V to D. 

From the line just made at B to E is half of full breast, to inches. From E to F is i\ 
inches. 

( i is half way between 1! and E. < '■ to 1 1 is 3 inches. Square down from H. 

Apply the blade measure from the line inside of 1! to II, 12A inches. Square up from H. 

H to I is ..'. the distance from A to I!. Square up from I. 

K is half way between B and 11. I\ to Lis \ inch. Square up from L. 
\ to X is : ; inch more than i breast. Square up from N. N to O is \ inch. 

Measure distance A to * ), apply to 11 and up to J, strap measure u : { inches. 

Draw a line from J to D to get M. Draw a line from X to M. 

From J to P is j inch less than ( ) to M. 

Shape the back, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscye \ inch below W and \ inch 
inside 1 if line I I . 

From Q to R is .', inch less than }, waist. 

I )raw a line from F through R to S. 

From R to T is 3 | inches. From S to U is 2 inches. 

I )raw a line from T to U. 

Square out from J. From J to I is ' breast. From J to Z is \ inch. 

I (raw a line from J to S. 

Shape the gorge and the front edge. 

From Q to X is 1 inch. From V to Y is 1 inch more than .', waist. 

\\ is half way between I! and F. 

Shape the sides and finish bottom as represented, 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



129 




Double Breasted Full Dress Vest 
Shawl Collar 



130 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, NO COLLAR 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, <)\ inches Breast, 38 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches 

Strap, ij'i' inches To opening, i-2-J inches 

Blade, 13 inches Full length, jf> inches 

Square lines A — C and A — N. 

A to D is scye depth. g\ inches; A to B is waist length. 17 inches; B to C is 3 1 inches. 

Square out from D and B. 3 is half way between A and D. 

B to V is % of an inch. Draw a line from 3 to V. 

From the line just made at D to E is half of full breast 10 inches. 

E to F is 1 1 inches. G is half way between D and E. G to H is 3 inches. Square down 
from H. 

Apply blade measure from D to H, i2-\ inches. 

Square up from H. FI to 1 is .', the distance from A to D. Square up from F 

K is half way between D and IT. K to L is i inch. Square up from F. 

A to N is f inch more than -J breast. Square up from N. N to O is i inch. 

Measure distance A to C). apply to H and up to J. strap measure. I2| inches. 

Draw a line from J to 3 to get M. Draw a line from N to M. 

J to P is \ inch less than O to M. 

Shape back, shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from J. J to 2 is ,\ breast. J to L is \ inch. 

to R is \ inch less than \ waist. 
R to T is 3i inches. 

Draw a line from 2 to F. 
Draw a line from F through R to S. 
The distance from S to U is 2] inches. 
Draw a lint- from I" through T. 

Measure distance A to O, apply to J and down to opening, 12', inches plus \ inch, 13} 
inches, down in S is 26 plus 1 [ inches. 27J inches. 
From Q to X is 1 inch. 
Y to Y is 1 inch more than !, waist. 

1 >raw a line from J through opening and finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



131 




I Iouble Breasted Vest, No Collar 



132 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



DOUBLE BREASTED VEST, PEAKED LAPEL 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Breast, 38 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches 

Strap, I2j inches To opening, I2i inches 

Blade, 13 inches Full length, 26 inches 

Square lines A — C and A — N. 

A to D is scye depth, 9^ inches; A to B is waist, 17 inches; B to C is 3! inches. 

Square out from D and B. 3 is half way between A and D. 

B to V is § of an inch. Draw a line from 3 to V. From the line just made at D to E is 
half of full breast, 19 inches. 

E to F is if inches. 

(i is half way between D and E. 

G to H is 3 inches. Square down from H. 

Apply blade measure from D to H, 12A inches. 

Square up from H. H to I is •* the distance from \ to D. Square up from I. 

K is half way between B and H. K to L is i inch. Square up from L. 

A to N is f inch more than | breast. Square up from N. N to O is ^ inch. 

Measure distance A to < K apply to II and up to J, strap measure, I2f inches. 

Draw a line from J to 3 to get M. Draw a line N to M. 

J to P is } inch less than O to M. 

Shape back, shoulder and armscye. 

Square forward from J. J to 2 is }., breast. Draw a line from 2 to F. J to Z is | inch 

Q to R is { inch less than i waist. 

Draw a line from F through R to S. 

Shape front. 

THE REVER 
Draw a straight line parallel with F — R. 

Make (he width of the rever from R to T, 3^ inches, and from U to S 2\ inches. 
Draw a line from U to T, measure the distance A to O, apply to J and down to opening 
\2\ inches plus jj inch, 13J inches, then down to S, 20 inches plus 1 } inches, 2"]\ inches. 
From O to X is 1 inch. 
V to Y is 1 inch more than h waist. 
Draw a line from 1 through opening and finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



133 




Double Breasted Vest, Peaked Lapel 



134 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

CLERICAL VEST, BUTTONED ON THE SIDE 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Scye depth, 9^ inches Breast. 38 inches 

Waist length, 17 inches Waist, 34 inches 

Strap, I2f inches Full length, 26 inches 

Blade, 13 inches 

Square lines A — O and A — D. 

A to B is scye depth, 9^ inches; A to C is waist, 17 inches; C to D is 3! inches. E is half 
way between A and B. 

Square out from B and C. 

C to U is § inch. Draw a line from E to U. 

From the line just made at B to F is half of full breast, [9 inches. 

F to G is if inches. Square down from < i. 

H is half way between B and E. H to 1 is 3 inches. Square down from 1. 

Apply blade measure from line inside of B to I, ul inches. Square up from 1. 

1 to J is £ the distance from A to B. Square up from J. 

M is half way between B and I. M to N is ^ inch. 

A to O is % inch more than I breast. Square up from < ). O to P is ^ inch. 

Measure distance A to P, apply to 1 and up to K, strap measure, i_>;] inches. 

Draw a line from K to E to get 0. 

Draw a line from to O. From K to R is ] inch less than from P to O. 

K to 2 is \ breast. Square forward from 2 by 3. 

Shape gorge, shoulder and armscye, dropping the armscve \ inch at V and \ inch inside 
of line I. 

Iv to L is \ inch more than }■ breast. Draw a line from L to G. 

From S to T is j inch less than \ waist. S to X is 1 inch. 

From U to \\* is 1 inch more than \ waist. 

Measure back A to I'. apply to K and down to Z, full length. _'d inches plus 1 [ inches. 
_>7] inches. 

After the vest is cut, an extra piece of cloth is cut as per dotted line for a button stand, 
and is to he sewed on to the back on the right side, to be buttoned over from the left side. 
The buttonholes are to be on the front, and the buttons on the extra piece. These vests are 
usually cut with a standing collar to conn' about \ inch apart in front. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 135 




Clerical Vest 



136 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Seat, 


38 


inches 


Knee, 


i8i 


inches 


Bottom, 


16 


inches 



TROUSERS 

The measurements by which these drafts arc produced arc as follows: 

Outside length, 42 inches 

Inside length, 32 inches 

Waist, $$ inches 

Square lines A — B and A — J. 
A to B is the outside length, 42 inches. 
B to C is inside length, 32 inches. 
D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. 
Square out lines B, C and D. 

C to E is h. seat measure. E to F is \ seat measure. G is half way between C and F. 
B to H is the same as C to G. 
Draw aline from II through G to I. 
Square up from E to establish J. 
Draw lines \ inch in and { inch out from E to J. 
F back to Z is § inch; E to V is \ seat. 

H to M is l of the bottom. H to L is \ inch less than from ] bottom. 
P to O and P to N are ] knee each. 

Draw a line from M through to Z. Draw a line from L to N and up to C. 
J to K is I waist; finish forepart as represented, hollowing the bottom 1 inch at H. 

THE BACK PART 

Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z, and G— 1. 

From I to X is ^ of an inch less than {■ seat. 

Sweep from K to V, pivoting at L. Sweep from C to \Y, pivoting at N. 

From X to V is 2 inches more than ^ waist. 

From C u > \Y is 1 \ inches. From F to U is 1^ inches. 

Draw lines from X to Y, from X to V and from Y to \V. 

M to T is 2 inch more than i bottom. From L to S is the same. 

From O to R is \ inch. From N to Q is the same. 

Finish hack part, taking out \ inch V and dropping \ inch below U. 

These trousers may also be cut by a thigh measure. 

The thigh measure is to be taken close, but not tight on the undress side. If, for in- 
stance, the thigh measure is 23 inches, and using the same measurements as in the last draft, 
pr< iceed as follows: 

From C to F is i the seat measure. 

From C to Z is \ the thigh measure, 1 1 \ inches. 

Fn mi /. to 1'" is I of an inch. 

G is half way between C and F. 

Square up from E. 

And make the rest of the diagram as the last. 

It will readily be seen how the line I — II is thrown cither forward or backward, accord- 
ing to the thigh measure. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



137 




Trousers 



138 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



PEG TOP TROUSERS 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Outside length, 42 inches Seat, 40 inches 

Inside length, 32 inches Thigh, 26^ inches 

Waist, 34 inches Bottom, 16 inches 

The knee measure may be taken or may be left out, as desired. 

Square lines A — B and A — J. 

A to B is the outside length, 42 inches. 

B to C is inside length, 32 inches. 

D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. 

Square out from B, C and D. 

C to E is half of seat measure; E to F is \ of seat measure. 

G is half way between C and F; B to H is the same as C to G. 

Draw a line from H through G to I. 

Square up from E to establish J. 

Draw lines \ inch in and ] inch out from E to J. 

E to V is J of seat measure. 

H to M is I of the bottom; H to L is i inch less than j of bottom. 

Draw a line from M to Z to establish O. 

Draw a line from L to C to establish N. 

/. is I of an inch back from I''; from Z to 3 is h of the thigh, 13! inches. 

J to K is -i waist. Finish forepart as represented. 

THE HACK PART 

Extend lines M— L, O— N, C— Z, J— K and G— I. 

1 to \ is : ^ inch less than ,', of scat measure; X to Y is \ waist, plus 1 inch. 

3 to W is \\ inches; F to U is l\ inches. 

From M to T is }, inch more than ^ of bottom; from L to S is the same. 

to R is I inch; X to Q is the same. 

Finish back part, dropping jj inch at U. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



139 




L T 

Peg Top Trousers 



140 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



SPRING BOTTOM TROUSERS 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Outside length, 43 inches Knee, 19 inches 

Inside length, 32 inches Bottom, 19 inches 

Waist, 38 inches Hip, 40 inches 

Seat, 40 inches 

When a person is inclined to be corpulent it is best to take a hip measure about three 
inches below the waist. 

A to B is outside length, 43 inches. 

B to C is inside length, 32 inches. 

D is 2 inches more than half way between B and C. 

A to 3 is 3 inches. 

Square out from 3, C, D and B. 

From C to E is \ seat. E to F is £ seat. G is half way between C and F. 

B to H is the same as C to G. Draw a line from II through G to I. 

In the Springdjottom trousers the forepart must be small at the bottom. 

From II to M is 4^ inches. H to L is 4 inches. 

P to O is I of the knee and P to N is the same. 

Draw lines from L to N and from M to O. Extend line from O to Z and from N to C. 

Square up from E to get 2. 

From 2 to K is I waist. 

However, the distance between K and A must never be less than 1 inch. 

In this case, where the waist is only 2 inches smaller than the seat, the distance from K 
tti A would be \ inch. We will therefore make it one inch and measure waist from K to I, 
9! inches. 

From 2 to J is the same distance as from 1 to 2. 

Shape the side from K to C. 

From 3 to 4 is \ inch more than \ hip. 

Draw a line from J to K, and finish as represented. 

THE BACK PART 

Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z and G— I. 

Sweep from C to W, pivoting at N. Sweep from K to Y, pivoting at L. 

[ to X is I inch less than \ seat. 

7. to W is \\ inches. F to U is \\ inches. 

L to S is \ inch more than \ bottom. M to T is the same. 

N to O is \ inch. O to R is the same. 

From X to Y is 2 inches more than \ waist. 

1 )raw lines from X to V, from X to Y, and from Y to W. 

Finish back part, taking out \ inch V at the waist and dropping § inch at U. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



141 




M L T 

Spring Bottom Trousers 



• 43 


mches 


3 J 


inches 


4-' 


inches 


44 


inches 


and A- 


-B. 



142 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 

TROUSERS FOR CORPULENT FIGURE 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Outside length, 43 inches Seat, 42 inches 

Inside length, 32 inches Knee. 20 inches 

Waist. 42 inches Bottom, 17 inches 

Hip, 

Scpiare lines A- 

A to B is outside length, 43 inches; I'. to C is inside length, $2 inches. 
I ) is 2 inches more than half way between I! and t . 
A to 3 is 3 inches. 
Square out from 3. C, D and B. 
C to E is 4 seat. E to F is T i seat, 
t , is half way between C and F. 
IS to H is the same as C to G. 
Draw a line from H through G to 1. 

H to M is J bottom. H to L is \ inch less than \ bottom. 
P to O and P to N are \ knee each. 
Draw lines from M to O and from L to N. 
Extend lines from O to Z and from N to C. 
Square up from E. 

At E go ] inch out and \ inch in; draw lines up to 2. 

From 2 to K is \ waist. But the distance from A to K must be no less than 1 inch, We 
will therefore make the distance from A to K 1 inch and measure from K to 1 half ofthe waist. 
From 2 to J is the same distance as from 2 to 1. 
Shape the side from K to C. 
From 3 to 4 is \ inch more than | hip. 

Draw a line from J to K and shape the front through I and 4 to F. 
Finish forepart, hollowing 1 inch at H. 

THE BACK PART 

Extend lines M— L, O— N, C— F and G— L 
[ to X is I inch less than \ seat. 

Sweep from C to W, pivoting at N. Sweep from K to Y. pivoting at L. 
From X to V is 1 inch more than \ waist. 
From C to W is 1 !, inches. From F to U is iA inches. 
Draw lines from X to V, from X to Y and from Y to W. 
L to S is ', inch more than \ bottom. M to T is the same. 
X to Q and < ) to R are \ inch each. 

Finish hack part as represented, dropping it i| inch at U. 

In trousers where the waist is as large as the seat it is not necessary to take the V out at 
I he w aist. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



H3 




Corpulent Man's Trousers 



144 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TROUSERS FOR A BOW-LEGGED PERSON. 

I R 




After the measures have been taken as 
usual, ascertain the amount that the legs are 
bowed, by having the person stand with both 
feet together. Draft viuir forepart according- 
ly. If the bow be two inches, cut in the fore- 
part as from R to N and at 2. 

From R to I is i inch. 

From 2 to 3 is J inch. 

Pin the pattern over figure 2 on the figure 
3 and letter R to figure 1, after which place 
them on a clean sheet of paper. (See Diagram 
II.) Straighten out the inseam and measure 
the length from F to M so that you get the 
proper length. Now cut the back part accord- 
ingly. (See Diagram III.) If the bow lie 1 
inch, then it is not necessary to cut it in two 
places, -J inch between 2 and 3 will be sufficient. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 145 




After Being Siiortejs'ed in Seam 



146 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



TROUSERS FOR KNOCK-KNEED PERSON 

These trousers are cut just opposite to the trousers for a bow legged man. They are 
cut open as from N to O. From N to i is £ inch or as much more as may be necessary. Lap 
the pattern over as from N to i and cut the back part accordingly. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 147 




Trousers for Knock-Kneed Man 



148 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 




Narrow Falls 



The pattern for the trousers having been cut, proceed as follows: 
1 is half way between J and K. 
B to (i is the same distance as from I to K. 
From I to G is 8 indies, or I inch below the pocket as from B. 
Add i inch from _• to 3 and J to 4. 

The waist-band for these trousers is cut separately. A welt is sewed on as from 1 to G 
and the fly that is added is sewed on underneath part of the forepart marked B — K. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



149 




Broad Falls 



to A. 



After the forepart has been cut out, proceed as follows: 

Lay the pattern on the paper and mark as from K to J, to 2, an 

From K to A is 8 inches, or A is i inch below the pocket. 

From j to 2 is 2 inches. 

From J to 4 and 2 to 3 is I inch for buttons and button-holes. 

The waist-band may be added to the piece or may be cut separately 



150 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



RIDING BREECHES WITH EXTENSION 

The measurements by which this draft is produced are as follows: 

Outside length, 35^ inches Knee, 16^ inches 

Inside length, 25 inches Small of knee, 13^ inches 

To knee, 22 inches Calf, 15 inches 

Waist, 35 inches Ankle, 12 inches 

Seat, 40 inches 

Square lines A — E and A — J. 

A to B is 22 plus 1^ inches, 23^ inches. B to C is 2\ inches; C to D is 4 inches; A to E 
is 36! inches. 

E to F is inseam, 26^ inches. 

Square out from F, B, C, D and E. 

F to G is I seat. G to H is \ inch more than \ seat measure. 

H to S is f inch. Square up and down from G to establish 7 and J. 

Draw a line from S through L to M. 

Square down from M. 

From M to N is \ inch more than \ of small of knee. 

Square down from N. 

P to Q is I inch more than \ calf. 

to R is \ inch more than \ ankle. 
Draw a line from F to N ; F to T is 1 inch. 

J to W is \ waist. Shape side seam, and finish as represented. 

THE BACK PART 
Extend lines I— U, Y— Z, B— L, 8—5, 9—6 and E— 7. 
R to 7 is I inch; Q to 6 is \ inch; M to 5 is \ inch. 
II to Z is 2 inches; T to Y is 2 inches; G to 11 is \ seat. 
U to V is 4 inches; V to X is \ waist plus 1 inch. 
Draw a line from V to II. 
Draw a line from Z to 5. 

-Measure ankle 1\ to O and 7 to 10, 12 inches, and 2 inches for the V and seams. 
Q to P and 6 to 9 calf, plus £ inch. 

M to N and 5 to 8, small of knee plus \ inch. 1 is half way between O and R. 
Square up from 1 to 2. 

1 to 3 and 1 to 4 are \ inch each. 
Cut out V on back part. 
Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



151 




Riding Breeches with Extension 



162 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



Waist, 


34 


inches 


Seat, 


40 


inches 


Knee, 


21 


inches 


2.\ inches 







GOLF OR BICYCLE TROUSERS. 

Outside length to the knee, 24 inches 
Full length, 31 inches 

Inseam, 21 inches 

Ankle, 

Square lines A — B and A — J. 

A to B is full length. B to C is inseam. A to 14 is length to knee. 14 to D is 1^ inches. 

Square out from C, 14, D and B. 

C to E is \ seat. 

E to F is \ inch more than \ seat. G is half way between C and V . 

B to H is the same as C to G. 

Draw a line from H through G to I. 

P to N and P to O are \ knee each. 

Draw a line from N to C and from to Z. 

3 is half way between 4 and 11. 2 is half way between T and II. 

From 2 to L is \ bottom. From 2 to 5 is ] inch more than \ ankle. 

From 3 to M is \ ankle. From 3 to 6 is \ inch more than J ankle. 

Shape the bottom of forepart from O to M, from P to 6 and 5 and from N to L. 

Take out a V between 6 and 5 as marked. 

Square up from E to J. 

Mark \ inch in and \ inch out from E to J. 

J to K is J waist. 

C to 1 is 1 inch. 

Finish forepart as represented. 

THE BACK I 'ART 

Extend lines L— M, N— O, C— Z and I— K. 

Draw a line from G and from I to X; I to X is \ seat. 

Draw a line from X to V. 

X to Y is 1 inch more than \ waist. 

1 to W is \\ inches. 

F to U is \\ inches. 

( ) to R and N t<» Q are \ inch each. 

M to S and L to T are \ inch each. 

Cut out V from back part as P — 5 — 6 and finish back part as represented, dropping it % 
inch at LI. 

The cuff is 12] inches wide; allow 1 j- inches for make-up and 5 inches deep, to be fin- 
ished w ith 5 buttons. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTE 



153 




Bicycle or Golf Trousers 



154 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



MILITARY CAPE 

Square lines A — B — C. 

Place the back of an overcoat pattern of the size required to touch line A — B. 
Place the forepart to touch line A — C with the shoulder touching at M — P. 
.Mark around the back at D — E — M and the front at P — U around the gorge and front 
edge. 

From E to F is I inch. 

From P to T is i^ inches. 

From U to S is i inch. 

From T to N is i inch. 

Draw lines from S to N and from F to N. 

Sweep from B to C, pivoting at S. 

Flatten the bottom and hollow shoulder as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



155 




Military Cape 



156 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



SHOULDER CAPE. 

Draw a line and place the back of an overcoat pattern of the size required, the center 
seam to touch at A — C. 
B is the breast line. 

Mark around the back as at A — H — D. 
From B to D is ^ breast. 
From D to E is ^ breast. 
Draw a line from H through E to I. 
From I to J is I inch. 
From F to G is ^ inch. 

Shape the back from G through H through E to J. 

From A to C is the length required. From G to J is 3 inches more than from A to C. 
Finish the bottom as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



157 




Shoulder Cape 



158 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



THE SHOULDER CAPE— Continued 

THE FOREPART 

Place the forepart of an overcoat pattern of the size required on a sheet of paper and 
mark around it as per dotted lines. M — X is the breast line. 

From X to K is 4^ inches, or the addition to the breast of a single breasted overcoat. 

From K to L is £ breast. 

From L to M is ^ breast. 

From R to S is ^ inch. t 

From N to Q is ^ breast. 

From N to O is 1 inch. 

Sweep from O to P, pivoting at Q. 

From N to P is 1 inch. Draw lines from O to Q and from P to Q. 

Draw a straight line from P through M to U. 

From U to V is 1 inch. 

Draw a line from V to M. Shape the shoulder from S to O, and the side from P to Y. 
rounding it | inch over M. 

From X to Y is 2 inches. From Z to W is the same. 

From S to T is 1 inch. 

From S to O and from P to V is the same as from G to J on the back part. 

Sweep from V to W, pivoting at T. 

Finish as represented. 



THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



159 




The Shoulder Cape 



160 THE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 



A FEW REMARKS ABOUT MAKING COATS. 

The Canvas. — The canvas and hair cloth should always be cut on the bias. 

SACK COATS 

Sack Coats. — In sewing up the side seams hold the back easy over the blade, straight 
to about 3 inches below the waist, and a trifle short over the hip. 

The Shoulders.— The front shoulder may be slightly stretched from the middle of it, 
to the shoulder point and the back held easy over the same parts, but never stretch it for a 
stout person. 

The Edges. — Always dip the stay tape in water and press before using it. When bast- 
ing stay tape on the front edge, hold it short over the breast, and work the front edge in, so 
that the roundness of the breast is pressed in to the middle of the front and the edge becomes 
straight. For a stout person, hold the stay tape short over the most prominent rounding, 
which is over the waist. In all straight front coats, such as over coats, double breasted 
sacks, or straight front sacks, the front edges must be worked in until they are straight. 

The Sleeves. — In sewing up the front seams always begin at the top, and, basting on 
the upper sleeve, keep both upper and under sleeves ev.en for about 3 inches; from there 
down hold the upper sleeve a little short to about 3 inches from the bottom, and from there 
down hold them even. When sewing up the back seam, begin also on top, and basting on 
the upper sleeve, keep them both even to the elbow, over the roundness of the elbow hold 
the upper sleeve easy, and from there down even. 

Before basting in the sleeves straighten out the armscye, and take a linen thread, draw- 
in the back part of the armscye from the shoulder seam to about ii inches below the side 
seam, and press the fullness away so as to leave a pocket over the blade bone. 

When basting in the sleeve, begin with the right one and placing the seam of the sleeve 
• to the nick of the back hold it even to about I inch beyond the shoulder seam, from there on 
full the sleeve in until the front nick of the sleeve reaches the nick of the front; from there 
hold the sleeve even until you reach the part of the armscye that is drawn in with the linen 
thread and full the under sleeve in over it. 

The Collar. — Collars are to lie put in easy in the hollow of the gorge for normal or 
slim persons. A concave shoulder needs a longer collar than a normal shoulder. A stout 
person needs a shorter collar than a normal person. In either case, don't stretch the collar 
stand. 



HE AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER 161 



FROCKS 

In basting the side body to the front, always begin and keep them even at the armscye 
and hold the side body a little short at the waist. 

THE SKIRT. 

After the side seam and fish are sewed and pressed i ipen, baste a piece of stay tape to the 
bottom, or the waist seam of the side body, so as to prevent it from stretching, after which 
baste the skirt on, beginning at the side, hold the skirt and side body even to the side seam; 
from there on for about 4 inches hold the skirt full, and from there on even to the front. 

In sewing the back to the side body, begin at the armscye and keep both back and side 
body even to about 4 inches from the waist; from there down full the back in about \ or § 
inch; don't stretch the side body until after the hack is sewed on to it, and then only just enough 
to make the hack seam straight. Shrink in the side body half way. 

THE PLEATS. 

The proper way to make the pleats is to put a baste in J inch or a seam back from the 
mark stitch, and press the roundness of the skirt in until the pleat is straight, press it open as 
if it were a seam. Pull the baste out audit is ready to be joined to the back. 

The shoulder, collar and sleeves are the same as in the sack coats. 

In double breasted frocks or dress coats all the seams are joined the same as the single 
breasted coats, except that the rever is held short over the breast and the bell shape skirt 
needs but little fullness at the waist. 

VESTS. 

All vests cut by this system need no collar stand, as the stand is cut on the vest. 

The Edges.— All the front edges are to be made straight with the stay tape, i. e., they 
are to be worked in until the edge is straight and the fullness pressed in to the middle of the 
front. 

The Shoulders. — The shoulders ought to be stretched slightly and the back held full 
over them. The collar, if there be one. should be held easy to about 3 inches from the 
shoulder and from there held short to about 2 inches from the front edge. 

Double breasted vests, with or without collar, or dress vests with low openings should 
have stay tape laid around the opening and held short so as to prevent the edge sticking 
away from the shirt front. 

Double breasted vests, and double breasted coats must have more breast worked in them 
than single breasted vests or coats. 

TROUSERS. 

Avoid stretching trousers, except the inseam of the back part from the knee to the 
crotch, and that only \ inch. Any stretching on the forepart is sure to spoil them. Let the 
notches come together evenly; hold the forepart easy over the knee and the back part hold 
easv over the calf. 

Peg top trousers should have the roundness from over the hip pressed in to the back. 
Let the fore part be held easy over the back part from the hip to the knee. Waist bands 
should be held a little short 'over the fore part, easy in hollow of the waist and even from 

there back. , . . 

The right fly should be held easy in the hollow of the crotch. Let all the shaping be 
done by shrinking. Do not stretch. 



INDEX 



Introduction 3 

Preface 5 

The Measurement of the Human Body '. 7 

How to Measure 8 

Vest Measurements 14 

Trousers Measurements 16 

The Square lfi 

Single Breasted Sack Coat 18 

Actual Measurements Will Show Figure 2fi 

Three Button Sack '. 36 

Straight Front Sack— Straight Back 38 

Four Button Military Sack With or Without Exaggerated Shoulder 40 

How to Cut a Concave Shoulder 42 

Three Button Double Breasted Sack 44 

Four Button Sack (For Stout Figure) 46 

Four Button Sack (For Corpulent Fiuure) 4S 

Three Button Cutaway Frock 52 

One Button Cutaway Frock 54 

English Walking Coat 56 

Three Button Frock (For Stout Figure) 5S 

Three Button Frock (For Corpulent Figure) 60 

Single Breasted Frock (Straight Front) 62 

Three Button Double Breasted Frock 64 

Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Stout Figure) 66 

Three Button Double Breasted Frock (For Corpulent Figure) 68 

Tuxedo Coat 70 

Tuxedo Coat (Peaked Lapel) 72 

Full Dress Coat (Peaked Lapel) 76 

Full Dress Coat (Shawl < 'oi.i.ari 74 

A Few Words in Regard to Waist Suppression 78 

Full Breast — Flat Back so 

< 'iiestereield Overcoat 84 

Top Coat 86 

Full Box i Ivekcoat 88 

Inverness 90 

Double Breasted Ulster 92 

Single Breasted Frock Overcoat 94 

Double Breasted Frock Overcoat 96 

Single Breasted Paletot 98 

Single Breasted Paddock 100 

Double Breasted Paddock 102 

Measuring a Hunchback 104 

Straight Front Sack for Hunchback 106 

Cassock Coat 108 

The Sleeve 110 

Half and Half Sleeve 112 

Sleeve for Box Overcoat 114 

Single Breasted Vest (No Collar) 116 

Single Breasted Vest with Notch Collar 118 

Single Br east el Vest, Notch Collar (For Stout Figure) 120 

I !re \ st ei i Vest, Notch Collar (For Corpulent Figure) 124 

Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) 126 

Double Breasted Full Dress Vest (Shawl Collar) 12S 

i ile Breasted Vest (No Collar) 130 

Double Breasted Vest, (Peaked Lapel) 132 

i Clerical Vest (Buttoned on Side) 134 

:i;s 136 

Peg Top Trousers 138 

Spring Bottom Trousers 140 

Trousers for Corpulent Figure 142 

Trousers for Bow-Legged Person 144 

Trousers for Knock-Kneed Person Hi; 

Narrow Falls 14S 

Broad Falls 149 

Riding Breeches with Extension 150 

ib Bicycle Trousers 152 

Military < 'ape 154 

ii er i 'ate 156 

A Feu Remarks About Making Coats 160 



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WM. P. AHNELT, PRES. <. TREAB. 
CHAS. W. NELSON, 1ST vice-phes. 
WM. O. FREYER, 2ND vice-PRES. 
LEON LEWIN, SECRETARY 



Antmran ifeljinn (Sin. 



[INCORPORATED] 

ESTABLISHED 18QO 



Designers and 
Publishers of 

Fashions 

853 Broadway 



Corner of 14th Street 



NEW YORK 



CHICAGO. 158-164 STATE STREET 



European Branches : 



PARIS : 14 Rue Taitbout BERLIN : Leipzigxr Strasse 90 

LONDON: 203 Regent Street 



AM ERIC AN 

GENTLEMAN 



Is the Leading 1 High=CIass Practical 
Tailors' Journal of the World .... 

SUBSCRIPTION $7.SO PER AININUM 

: : : WHICH INCLUDES : : : : 

EIGHT LARGE JOURNALS cram full of the best and latest sartorial ideas and news, 
profusely illustrated with fashion designs ; drafts and diagrams of all garment 
illustrated on plates ; Style Chats with the Leaders in the Trade, etc. 

SIX LARGE PANORAMAS of styles, 22x28 inches. 

TWENTY-FOUR TWO-FIGURE PLATES, 12^x18, all exquisitely printed in colors 
on royal plate paper, showing the very latest styles in Men's Garments. 



The Edition de Luxe 

of the AMERICAN GENTLEMAN is the acme of fashion publications. Magnificently 
embossed and printed in colors on the finest steel plate paper. 

<TbC iSMttOU J>C XlU'C is a production to be proud of. There are 32 of these 
plates issued annually, and they are works of art, suitable for the very highest class 
of tailors. 

Subscription, inducing tbe "Regular Ebition of tbe Hmertcan Gentleman 
witb its plates, $15.00 per annum. 





PUBLISHERS 




AMERICAN 


FASHION 


COMPANY 


853 BROADWAY, NEW 


YORK 




BRANCHES AT 




CHICAUO: 158=164 STATE STREET 


PARIS : 14 Rue Taitbout 


LONDON: 203 Regent Street 


BERLIN: 90 Leipziger Strasse 



PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY 

LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL 



Les Parisiennes 



Album de Luxe 
"Genre Tailleur" 



rtC CS Ipadeiennee is the leading Fashion Journal 
1^ of the world devoted to the Creation of 
Styles for Ladies' Tailors. It is the only 
journal of its kind maintaining offices, each with an 
able staff of designers and artists, in Paris, Berlin, 
London and New York. 

Xes Iparisiennee is a well-edited trade journal 
devoted to the interests of Ladies' Tailors. It 
gives all the latest news, fashion chat, etc., of inter- 
est in the world of Women's Fashion. 



Published Monthly Subscription Price 

Except December and June. For One Year (lO numbers) $20.00. 



PUBLISHERS 



American Fashion Company 

853 BROADWAY, NEW YORK 

I PARIS BERLIN LONDON CHICAGO 

f 14 Rue Taltbout »0 Lelpziger Strasse 203 RegttJI Street 158-164 State Street 



Branches at 



PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY 

LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL 



A merican A lbum of Fflf N ovelties 

Thirteenth Year 

Cbc One Standard Authority for furriers 

THE DESIGNS ARE ORIGINAL 
: : : THE MODELS AUTHENTIC 
THE DIAGRAMS CORRECT : : : 

An absolutely correct guide to Coming Fashions and Chronicle of Fur Trade News. 
Published nine times a year (monthly, from March to November). 

Subscription $20.00 a Year 

Including large Artistic Season's Show Card, 22x28, magnificently printed in colors on plate 
paper, and 72 Exquisite Fashion Plates, 12x17, together with nine journals replete with Fur 
Trade News, Items, Chats with Leaders in the Trade, etc., all profusely illustrated. 



*»<• PUBUISMERS » * <• 



American Fashion Company 

853 Broadway, New York. 

BRANCHES AT 

CHICAGO BERLIN LONDON PARIS 

15^-164 State Street 90 Leipziger Strasse 203 Regent Street !•* Rue Taitbout 



PATTERNS OF ALL KINDS CUT TO ORDER PROMPTLY 

LEARN CUTTING AT THE AMERICAN CUTTING SCHOOL 



Cbe 

American 
Garment 
Cutter 

For 

Women 


— \ 

TLhc IRewest flllost Complete 
anS inp=to=E)ate TKttork on 
Cutting anfc ^Designing 

Women's Garments. 

^HE "AMERICAN GARMENT CUTTER" for Women is 
M the most complete as well as the most up-to-date work of 
^* its kind ever published. It contains everything pertaining 

to the cutting of garments for all sizes and shapes, with illustra- 
tions fully explaining the workings of the system, so that anybody 
can see at a glance the simplicity of it. In it you will find not 
• only how to cut all styles of garments but also how to make 
them up. It is the result of years of practical experience put on 
paper, and we are sure that in subscribing for it you will find it 
the best investment that you have ever made. 

The diagrams will be of the same practical and superior kind 
as shown in " Les Parisiennes " and on which we have received 
many very complimentary letters. 

It teaches how to make up all styles of garments. 

The work is elaborately and substantially bound in cloth and 
gilt, making a very handsome volume of nearly 200 payes 

Price $25.00 for Complete Work. 


The Ar 

Being the skirt section of ihe above 
and drafting all styles of skirts, sucl 
skirts, riding habits, divided riding s 



Send for Illustrated Prospectus with Specime 


nerican Garment Cutter 

( Women's Skirts ) 

work, and containing concise and complete instructions for cutting 

as circular skirts, 5 to 19 different gored skirts, flounce skirts, flare 

kirts, etc., etc. A most complete manual of the art of skirt cuttine 

« Pa g« Price $10.00 


PUBLISHER JS 

American Fashion Company, 

853 Broadway, New York. 



American Garment Cutter 

FOR FURRIERS 

The only work of the kind that is thoroughly up-to-date and thoroughly practical. 



A Most Complete Text = Book 

Containing instructions for the cutting and drafting of all 
kinds of Fur Garments, accompanied by concise drafts and 
diagrams of different kinds of Jackets, Ulsters, Dolmans, 

Newmarkets, Capes, Neckpieces of all sorts 

. . . . . . . Gentlemen's Fur Lined Coats, etc., etc. 

H Complete Working Manual for tbe practical furrier 

A large quarto volume of over one hundred pages, hand- 
somely bound in cloth and gold ..... 

Price for the Complete Work $25.00 

Send for Illustrated Prospectus and Specimen Pages. 



American Fashion Company, 

F>U B UISH E RS 

853 Broadway, New York. 

158 164 State Street, Chicago. 14 Rue Taitbout, Paris. 

90 Leipziger Strasse, Berlin. 41 Cheapside, London, E. C. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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